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Archive for the ‘Cabinets’ Category
Being Smart with Your Prescription Medication
If you have any kind of prescription medication or otherwise potentially harmful products in your bathroom, it’s a good idea to keep all these products up high and out of the reach of small children. Kids, after all, are curious. And they always seem to have a way of finding the one thing they’re not supposed to have. That’s why “out of sight, out of mind” is a good tactic to take with all your dangerous bathroom products.
All you have to do is invest in some DIY cabinets. Especially if the cabinets aren’t clear, it will reduce the likelihood of anyone getting a hold of something they shouldn’t. Make sure these cabinets are up high enough that young children can’t reach them. These cabinets, of course, won’t be a safeguard against older children, but they can prove a simple and effective deterrent for your youngest.
DIY how to Build a Drawer
Drawer sides made from prefinished melamine consist with a dado cut 1/4″ deep running the length of the drawer depth. Building a drawer pullout is simply a box, with a drawer front screwed to the drawer face and a drawer knob attached to the drawer face. A typical drawer bottom is 1/4″ white melamine cut on a table saw. 
Any cabinet can use some sort of box to pullout and fill with just about anything. The dimension can vary and prefinished drawer sides can be purchased up to 12″ deep for larger capacity. Hardwood drawer fronts and backs are considered mostly for the durability. Once the drawer box has been assembled with finished nails, gun or hand nails will suffice. The drawer slides can be mounted and installed inside the cabinet. All drawer slide hardware has adjustable slots or cams for fine tuning. You may now install the drawer faces and pull hardware.
DIY Drawer Slides
Building a better drawer and how to install drawer slides just gets easier. Every cabinet has a cube that will be used for specific reasons. Pullouts can help with this usage, because they enable you to slide out the compartment and have it in front of you instead of down inside the cabinet.![installing drawer slides [Cabinet Hardware]](http://www.my-diy-blog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/thumbnail-1-141x150.jpg "installing drawer slides [Cabinet Hardware]")
Drawer slides generally are 1/2″ wide, 2 per drawer and come in nominal lengths IE., 10″- 24″ long. So if your cabinet is 19″ deep & the front clear opening or [face frame width] is 14.5″ wide, you will use 18″ slide hardware and the overall width has to be 13.5″, because 14.5″ opening minus 1″ for slides equals 13.5″. The box overall dimensions will be 13.5″ X 18″ to accommodatethe area in which it will be installed. This formula will be used in every cabinet anywhere IE,. Garage cabinets, kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanity cabinets and closet drawers.
Side mount full extension pullout drawer slide hardware helps with accessing items in temporary storage, they come in pairs with simple specs and mounting screws. Easy to install with a screwdriver and a tape measure, you don’t have to call the guy when you can DIY.
How To Add an (110v) OUTlet
In a crafts room we wanted to install electrical power to an area that was going to be used as a printing station and required a 15 amp 110v plug for this usage. The best and closest area to leg power from was above the ceiling in the attic storage. With an existing single gang box there we ran some 14/2 romex down the wall and into a cabinet side. This needed only 2 holes drilled and the side of the melamine cabinet wall cut for a low profile single gang retro plastic cut-in box.
Once the wall of the 3/4″ melamine was marked then the Fein Multi Masterassisted in the finish plunge cut, the romex pulled through the box and the electrical outlet box was mounted on the wall, 2 men 2 hours of labor and approx. $35.00 us in materials. Important to note here will be to consult your local building codes for do’s and don’ts.
How To Choose Kitchen Cabinets
Choosing kitchen cabinets doesn’t have to be confusing. With a little research on your part you’ll know what to ask for, what you want and need, and where to find it. All while saving the most money you possibly can.
First - Decide what you need, what you want, and what you can afford.
- What style are you looking for? Shaker, Country, Retro, Classic, New England, Cottage?
- Are you open to suggestions and ideas?
- Do you want wood, laminate, frame cabinets or frameless (Euro-style)?
- What type of countertops are you going with? Laminate, solid surface, marble, granite, quartz, concrete, tile, glass?
- Do you need an entirely new kitchen, just a bath vanity, or only a rollout fixed?
- Do you need help with the entire process, which means you might need to hire or be your own contractor, or is your project small?
- What is your budget? If you have $200 you can paint your cabinets for a fresh look or get new handles or knobs. If you have $5,000 or more you will be able to get an entirely new kitchen, depending on size. If you have $10,000 you might even begin thinking about remodeling (changing walls, plumbing, etc.). Kitchens really can run from a few thousand to several tens of thousands depending on where you live and what you want. You’ll pay much more for a kitchen in New England or Oregon than you will in Kentucky or Wisconsin.
Thinking about these questions will help get you going in the right direction.
diy crown moulding
Crown moulding is one of the lowest cost additions you can make to a home that has possibly the greatest impact and highest return on investment. The addition of decorative moulding enables you to transform any ordinary living space bringing it a new life, charm and elegance. The installation of crown moulding can certainly be a do it yourself type of improvement. However, if you’ve decided to take on your own crown moulding installation project there are some guides you should follow to make your job run smoother and avoid material waste.
First, find out what you need for materials.
You will need to determine what type of moulding and how much of it you will need to buy. You will need to measure and mark your walls for the best estimate on materials. Measure each individual wall and round up to the next foot. If any of your walls measure within a few inches of a length of moulding always buy the next size up just to be on the safe side.
Second - create a plan of attack.
We will be installing each piece of moulding in an ordered sequence, so we should do a quick sketch of the room, top view, as if we were looking down to see which wall we start with. Let’s make this a bit easier and start with the wall opposite the door and then number each wall going counterclockwise.
Let’s also set up our guides for installation on the walls. Hold a piece of moulding at each inside and outside corner to mark the position of the bottom edge. Use a chalk line stretched between the two opposite ends to mark the wall for your installation line. Also, locate and mark the position of studs and joists just below the installation line.
Third - install the first length.
Measure your starting wall and cut the first piece of moulding square at both ends using a miter saw. Then align the piece of moulding with your installation line and begin nailing 8d finish nails working from the center out. Make sure that your nails are centered in the moulding between top and bottom.
Fourth - cutting an inside corner joint.
For inside cuts we use a coped cut to ensure that the face of the moulding joins properly. Place the moulding on the saw with the ceiling edge against the table and the bottom edge against the saw fence. Make sure that the saw is set to a 45 degree angle. If you are coping a left side corner swing the saw to the left and right for the right side. You are doing it correctly if the long edge of the moulding is on the back.
To make sure that we will have a joint that fits tightly we will now cope the inside corner joint. Mark the face of the moulding with a pen on the very edge of the miter cut. Set your coping saw at a 5 degree angle and use the pen marked edge as your guide. Hold the piece in place on the wall to make sure your fit is tight.
Note: Before moving to the next step check to see what type of cut the other end of your moulding needs. If it is another inside corner take a measurement from the top edge of the number 1 piece that you have already installed to this corner. Mark the length of this measurement on your coped moulding and use your miter saw to make a square cut. You can now nail up that piece of moulding.
Fifth - cutting an outside corner joint.
To determine the length of your moulding piece if it ends on an outside corner cut two scrap pieces of moulding at opposite 45 degree angles. Join these pieces together and hold them in place at your outside corner. We can now take a measurement from the top edge of your installed starting piece to the edge of the corner piece you are holding in place. Use that length to cut your coped piece of moulding.
Sixth - The installation process
If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding ends on an inside that does not require a coped end, repeat the measuring and cutting you just did in order to but the outside corner joining end. Then measure and cut the opposite end to but the squared end against the wall. If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding does end in a corner that requires a coped cut repeat step four and complete your outside corner.
Lastly, you will work your way around the room in this same way. Cope your inside corners and miter your outside corners. Check your measurements and make your cuts. If you run into problems like excessively uneven walls, ceilings or ceiling heights due to your house settling or shifting consult a professional to avoid any unnecessary cost and aggravation.
Redesign on a Budget
There’s one way to ensure that the value of your home increases even during an economic downturn. Many people don’t understand that they can do a kitchen remodel without spending a ton of money. There’s just one key - you have to be creative! Check out these simple ideas to creating a new look for your kitchen on a budget:
~ Choose a theme for your kitchen: Italian, Mexican or traditional. Get a few accessories to carry out this theme.
~ Pick a bright new color for your kitchen. A new coat of paint or installing kitchen cabinets yourself are inexpensive ways to create a new look for a room.
~ Use matching hand towels and pot holders to coordinate with your new theme.
~ Display your collections. If you collect figurines, dishes or glassware use space-saving wall shelves to display your wares. This will give your kitchen that personalized look you want.
~ Repaper you drawers and shelves in a fun color. Every time you pull out a drawer or open up a cabinet you will see a burst of color.
Plywood DIY
Knowing your plywood thicknesses and UBC ratings, for a better understanding of the project in your head! Thoughts will become things, so do your due diligence.
Plywood grades are determined by a veneer quality on the face and back of each panel. The first letter designates quality of face veneer (best side), while the second letter denotes the surface quality of the back of the panel.The letter “X” indicates the panel was manufactured with scrap wood as the center plies, not “exterior” as is commonly thought. The A-D rating is only good for construction (softwood) plywood, not for hardwood plywoods such as oak or maple.
“A”: Highest grade quality available. Can be defect free or contain small knots, providing they are replaced with wooden plugs (the fillers having a “boat” or an “American football” shape) or repaired with synthetic patch. This grade may contain occasional surface splits that are repaired with synthetic filler. The surface is always sanded and provides for smooth paintable face quality.
“B”: Second highest quality veneer grade. Normally a by-product of downgraded “A” quality veneer. Solid surface, but may contain small diameter knots and narrow surface splits. Normally repaired with wooden plugs or synthetic filler. The surface is normally sanded smooth.
“C”: Considered to be a lower end face quality, but a reasonable choice for general construction purposes. May contain tight knots up to 1½ inches diameter, some open knot holes, some face splits, and discoloration. Some manufactures may repair the defects with synthetic filler. Panels are typically not sanded.
“D”: Considered to be the lowest quality veneer and often used for the back surface for construction grade panels. Allows for several knots, large and small, as well as open knots up to 2½ inches diameter. Open knots, splits, and discoloration are acceptable. “D” grade veneers are neither repaired nor sanded. This grade is not recommended for permanent exposure to weather elements. CDX is the grade for many home construction needs, shear walls are generally built with 3/8″ cdx in which the plywood gives a anti up-lift rating for several applications including replacing wall strength value, as windows and doors take areas in a wall that actually weaken the home structural value. Any DIYer is able to get more local code information in their area, the building or planning department[s] will be happy to assist here.
DIY Converting under Stair’s to Storage
In our busy lives of living, we all tend to accumulate too much stuff. Therefore storage is always a premium, and storing seasonal items or momentos or whatever we tend to deem, savable things, there is typically not enough usable space to go around. But in most instances under our staircases there is several extra square feet of area to convert into usable space.
![staircase [bookcase] storage](http://www.my-diy-blog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/thumbnail-21.jpg "staircase [bookcase] storage")
Be creative and succeed in utilizing the space that otherwise tends to go unused, storing and organizing cubicles make more cent’s than anything for the cost involed per the square foot price you will spend on your annual property taxes. A set of full height pullouts that will hide as well as allow easy access of almost any items you can dream of. The return on investment can prove to be advantageous too.
Many builders know how their clients are constantly asking about cabinet storage, well here is the DIY warrior’s greatest tool. The ability to think outside of the box!! And diy your way into the new rich lifestyle of real estate investing that has you thinking away instead of rotting away in front of the boob tube……
Diy short sales
Interestingly enough and more often than not the Realtor’s are getting in the way of too many home owners that are upside down in this real estate market. They have found most of the NOD’s that have the lenders { mortgage servicer’s } all up in arms over their ever growing long list of non performing assets. While very few investors have the magic pill that can fix most of these peoples problems, some do know how to execute short sale potential properties, and save the home owners themselves 7 years of misery, as well as, getting the banks closer to doing what they do best, ” lending money “.
One major snafu that’s not working is the way the Realtor goes about this tricky process, causing lengthy negotiations and or no buyers during the home owners time of need. The caveat here lies in understanding exactly what it is that the banks are truly looking for, and securing a huge opportunity for several entities.
When it does go smoothly and a fix and flip might be the exit strategy, a full blown kitchen remodel will take place, Home Depot can employ more help, and the real estate investor has upgraded a home that will create jobs in the consrtuction industry enabling the home to appraise higher and the state can collect more revenue to repair the roads…… etc. etc.