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DIY for resale
Upscale Projects best ROI
- Siding Replacement (fiber-cement or foam-backed vinyl). With the economic slump, home buyers aren’t being dazzled by bells and whistles as much as they are improvements that will ensure lower repair and utility bills. Although replacing current siding with fiber-cement has lost value from 2007, it still nets an astonishing 87% ROI. If you prefer a foam-backed vinyl product replacement instead, you can still look to recoup 80% of your cost.
- Window Replacement (vinyl or wood). Windows are not only an aesthetic feature. For most homeowners, they represent one of the easiest ways to lower home heating and cooling bills. By replacing your current windows with more efficient vinyl or wood ones, you can save on your utility bills, attract future home buyers and net a nearly 80% (vinyl) or 77% (wood) return on your investment.
- Bathroom Remodel. Depending on the size and amenities of your desired bathroom, you could expect to pay over $50,000 to tear out walls, repair joists and wall studs, change structural elements and make major layout changes, such as switching a toilet and shower. However big the price tag, you can still expect to recoup nearly 71% of the cost (which would be $36,400 if you have a $50K bill) when you go to sell. This project increased its value since 2007, while its sister project – adding a complete bathroom – fell in value.
- Major Kitchen Remodel. Kitchens are typically the most frequently used room in a home, so it makes sense that investing money here is going to pay off when it comes time to sell. While a major kitchen renovation is usually the most time-consuming and expensive home improvement job (averaging more than $110,000), it’s also one of the most profitable. Regardless of the size of your financial layout, you can expect to get a nearly 71% ROI
- Win/WIN/WIN and DIY today. BTW how has the stock market been working for you?
Diy Cabinets & the toe kick
In every form of cabinetry the toe kick gets overlooked. All diy cabinets can facilitate a toe kick, as in a strong foundation builds the forgoing future. At the base of cabinetry sits the frame that supports the boxes they rest on, and most of these allow the front toe kick to be visible.
Unless, as the image here shows, the end box or only cabinet (such as a bathroom vanity) has a side panel that is notched for a finish toe kick panel.
If the conditions are such that 3 boxes fill a space between two walls, for instance, the toe kick may end up being 10′ or so and will fasten below at the face of the frame the 3 boxes sit upon. In this case a back ledger and several sub span joist of 3/4″ ply every 24″ can be applied to create the base frame. Standard dimensions are 2″ to 3″ recessed back and 4″ high for comfort and cleaning. As the layout enables every cabinet, so in a sense they will have equal support for a good solid install. Now the finish front toe kick can be installed to complete the base portion of the cabinets.
Diy Cabinets believe it!
A product of one’s own environment never held truer than the simple thought tract. With any diy cabinets the start will be in your mind. Can I do this? The answer is always in the desire, your biggest hurdle is the idea that you can’t! But in today’s world information or shall we say the right info @ the right time will get you through that next step. Believe that you can first and then go to any number of DIY sites and something will definitely click for you.
You will need a few essential tools of course, power tools such as a table saw is paramount. A small compressor and a pin nail gun will aide 100 X’s over but not necessary if you can use a hammer. 90% of cabinets are just plywood cut square to fabricate a box or cube, a face frame is the hardwood grid that attaches to the front of the box. A Kreg jig will be the cheapest and best bet to assemble the face frame. This little beauty helps you hide the screws that fasten the frame together. Add a little glue and you’ve got the pro’s strength and longevity. Slab doors with no detail ( recessed panels) for example just need the right hardware and now the doors are on, there are places out there folks that will custom build doors for you, that are super reasonable per expense. With out going on and on here, the point is you can do it yourself period, and with a little bit of assistance, before long you may even change your vocation before you can say “did you say add some crown moulding ?”
Planning Kitchen cabinets
Before installing kitchen cabinets you must devise a plan. Simple or not the execution of your kitchens new remodel needs a plan of attack to make and use the most of your options as well as the choices and particular design. On a blank sheet of paper draft, draw or just jot down the dimensions of the kitchen IE 16′ x 14′.5″ with the individual wall lengths as well as the ceiling height’s.
The more measurements you use the better, IE center of kitchen sink and center of any electrical outlets for example. If the left side wall has a door in it then by all means get it on paper. Any island in there? Is there a drop ceiling with lighting causing a loss of an extra 1 foot of height? May this can be updated and removed for more storage. Once this has been completed the major home improvement centers have people in store that can put you in the system and design your dream kitchen with those dimensions. It may take a few minutes but you’ll know much more about what it is you hope to get done, and they have lots of models and different designs to compare with for your ultimate decision. A first step in the right DIY kitchen cabinet venture!
PS: Don’t forget to ask about any blems or damaged goods, they do not want to throw these away and you may easily see how they will work for you just fine!!
Kitchen Cabinet accessories
Every single day, night we have something to discard, as humans we live and consume as we breathe. During a DIY kitchen redo why not configure a place for that kitchen trash can. With a bit of design effort it’s a cinch on how to install kitchen cabinets with a pullout waste basket as opposed to the classic under the sink approach. That lower profiled area down there can’t really accept to much before needing to be emptied again. But the all new and improved habit changing technology lets us rethink the fine art of disposal habits, plus being concealed helps with the artistry of decor for your kitchen. With the double waste bins we get a recycle can also. Open the door, undo the plastic bag insert, lift and off to the curb. The other new bags right there beneath the full bag every time. We love this stuff, really!
Installing Kitchen Cabinets
How installing kitchen cabinets with a 5/8″ ACX subtop. The subtop is the plywood surface that’s fastened to the top of the cabinet(s), so you can lay the counter top over and adhere to it. Most would say why not 3/4″ plywood. Because most fabricated counter top have a 3/4″ return bullnosed front edge. With a 5/8″ subtop, the front edge of the counter top IE marble/ granite/ some of your corian or cultured counter tops are fabricated for a 3/4″ return that’s not going to hide the front edge of the plywood.
Many installers want this plywood subtop to be primer sealed before install and some of the better fabricators will seal the underside of the counter as well. Some glues used are not recommended because the porosity of the stone’s suck’s up and into the material and stain’s or even eats away and corrodes it. Ask the supplier for any recommended adhesives before hand.
Kitchen cabinet cut out’s
This will be a layout and cut, how to install kitchen cabinets with a full back panel. Some of the best installers on the job site iv’e witnessed, use a electrical remodel box before the installing of the kitchen cabinet. The wires are in place and the outlet has to come into the back of the sink cab for the disposer.
Because there is little to no play with outlet layout and the finish back ends up away from the face of the finish wall, ultimate perfection is executed in this manner. The outlet box can be pre-cut with a jigsaw and the retro remodel box installed while the cabinet slides in and gets plumbed and leveled, pretty much all at the same time. The most important fact here is to be sure any unsheathed wire is pulled and remains inside the outlet box.
Kitchen cabinet scribe Molding
When installing kitchen cabinets, general rule of thumb for most cabinets when they end at a wall. A small piece of molding is attach to the vertical side of the box at the wall. This enables the cabinet a finished appearance when the surface it butts against is not just right. Any out of plumb existing condition can be hidden for the sole purpose of eliminating extra work. Custom cabinet builders and installers run the wild side (side that ends at another surface besides it’s own group of cabinets) a little long, if they need to cut or scribe this side to make up the faults in the existing conditions.
Typically these are a simple 3/4″ x 1/8″ molding that can be forced into the wall, tight and take up the small imperfect gap that will show otherwise. When your order goes in, generally it will be shipped with the molding, in the same wood species as well as finish to optimize appearance.
Plumb & Level kitchen cabinets
Any DIY minded person can learn how to install kitchen cabinets, or just about any cabinet for that matter. When a box has been assembled square, IE equal sides and equal widths top and bottom. The one last conclusive but sometimes elusive quirk to the cube being set is the front or face.
Recap: Has the top from left to right, is level, and unless the kitchen cabinet has been built uneven or out of square this will mean with 100% certainty that both sides will be exactly plumb.
Now when that’s golden, your challenge is to pull the top face away from the wall because the face is out of plumb. But with it sitting on top of the finish floor, the reality is for the face to come forward the bottom front has to go lower. This may sound like hooey but im not hooing you by any means, just the fact’s here folks….
Adjoining Kitchen Cabinets
When installing kitchen cabinets that are butted together, depending on the style and or type, look for the obvious line up points. IE faces match or top of cabinets line up to be flush at the top. Set the largest box first, plumb and level. Or the middle cabinet to have access for clamping before screw setting.
A layout line can be made and a ledger board (1×2 piece of mat.) to hold your cabinet in place, so you can fasten to the wall to get started and follow with adjoining other cabinets. NOTE: some may not line up because the door will flush up the face as the image on left illustrates. Typically no glue is required here but some appropriate colored caulking may be used.