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Archive for the ‘DIY doors’ Category

IMF warns of double dip

Saturday, July 10, 2010
posted by Craig

The International Monetary Fund (IMF) warns that “the backlog of foreclosures and high levels of negative equity, combined with elevated unemployment, pose risks of a double dip in housing.”  further support for foreclosure mitigation under the existing framework may be needed if the housing market were to weaken,” IMF wrote, adding that a worst-case scenario may include reconsideration of mortgage cram-downs within bankruptcy.  The IMF noted that recent reform legislation emphasizes a return to “safe securitization” of assets like mortgages through greater oversight and accountability for ratings agencies, more transparency of the assets, greater emphasis on investor due diligence and “skin in the game” for originators.  In need of Foreclosure Relief, I can Assist!

“Given the large role that securitization played in the past, and the potential limits to bank balance sheets for creating credit, speedy implementation of these measures would be essential to avoid limits on credit supply that could crimp the recovery,” IMF said. “It will also be important to coordinate reforms domestically and internationally to ensure safe securitization and promote a level playing field.”  In the meantime, the housing finance system remains “costly, inefficient and complex,” according to the note.  The IMF also recommended a clarification of government-sponsored enterprise (GSE) mandates and a privatization of their retained portfolios. Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac’s core bundling and guarantee business lines “should be made explicitly public,” the IMF said.

Please feel free to visit our Foreclosure Relief Page, to understand their are other options!

Bath Tub Fixtures (WHY)

Saturday, July 3, 2010
posted by Craig

After a long day, one of the things you would be craving for is a warm long bath. A great bath tub can become your best friend at the end of the day. Many people upgrade their tubs with bath tub faucets to make it more delightful to use. Increasing the value of their largest investment, Real Estate. Nowadays, bath tub faucets come in all shapes and sizes so you have countless of options to choose from.

One of the newest things in this industry today is the touch faucet innovation. Some of the touch faucet brands in the market today are Delta and Kohler. The Delta 980T - SSSD is equipped with the latest Touch 20 technology and is one of the leading products in the market. The price of Delta touch sensor faucet in Amazon is $348. Listed at the original price of $585, you would be able to save around $40 when you purchase it in Amazon. It has a Pilar design which was inspired by technology and nature combined. It also features a Magnatite spray head to secure tight fit. Additionally, this product also boasts its Diamond Seal technology which utilizes an electronic valve along with a diamond coating, making it more durable and guaranteed to last a lifetime.

If you want a Zen-styled bathroom, a faucet Asian waterfall nickel sink would be the best way to go. You can find one in Amazon, like the model SV15, which is an oriental inspired bathroom sink and faucet that sells for $425. This product has marble sink which is handcrafted and a brushed nickel faucet finish. The sink is about 1″ thick and colored black and grey. The product includes a pop up drain and a limited lifetime warranty. Bath tub faucets with an Asian design will also go along well with a Zen inspired bathroom. Vintage themes are also popular. You can add vintage glass fixtures for bathroom or look for modern floor mount bathtub faucets if you want a contemporary, modern look.

For a modern styled bathroom, most people choose ceiling mount tub fillers or custom ceiling tub faucets with a contemporary sleek modern finish. This is one of the most unique kinds of bath tub faucets ever thought of. A bath faucet from ceiling mounts is a great statement of modern style. You can find the Kohler K922 CP ceiling mount bath filler at Amazon for $323.86. The product has a solid brass construction and a polished chrome finish for more durability and resistance to tarnish and corrosion. It has a 2 centimeter orifice and weighs about 5.6 lbs. This product can be used for dual purposes. Aside from filling your tub, it can also be used as a shower. The minimalist style is also the modern style so if you want this kind of bathroom, don’t overdo decorations and fixtures. Look for fittings that possess simplicity and clean finishes.

Bath tub faucets, no matter what design, should complement and match the overall look of your bathroom. Before buying a faucet that interests you, think about the kind of look you want to achieve first. Compare the different styles that you want and canvas on some of the things you need to buy. Remember, you don’t have to spend too much and hire a contractor or decorator for this. Just have in mind the right idea, and the great products to go along with it.

setting PreCast Concrete

Monday, May 31, 2010
posted by Craig

Many variation of precast tiles can all be installed anywhere such as tile, precast fire place mantels or precast exterior window and door accents. Precast concrete steps or stairs, for instance are applied such as ceramic tile with thin set adhesives and grout. A masonry diamond grinder or skilsaw blade can cut with ease and prefit into place as a dry run.

 lathe and prefloat the stucco pror installation of precast concretesupport heavy precast concrete Remove any loose or broken surface concrete or stucco to allow your precast concrete to bond as if its all one piece. After window was in place we also added some expanded wire for holding the grout and creating a bond reinforcement that wont crack. These precast stones need to be supported while the thin set dries for 24 hours. This is another fantastic way to accent the exterior finish for a better resale future value return on your investments.

Commercial Real Estate

Tuesday, May 18, 2010
posted by Craig

Commercial Market Still Strugglingcommercial plumbing valves

While the commercial real estate market may not have fully recovered, National Association of Realtors Chief Economist Lawrence Yun identified some developing, positive trends in the market that could eventually lead to recovery at the “Economics Issues and Commercial Business Trends Forum.”  Yun said jobs only began increasing a couple of months ago and are still below peak. The commercial market has seen a few improving trends in recent months. The market is experiencing an increase in transactions due to more distressed properties available needing various levels of plumbing repairs IE., and prices are beginning to stabilize. Yun believes within the next year more lending will slowly become accessible to commercial property owners.

Two commercial sectors showing the most promise are manufacturing and multifamily. Manufacturing activity and employment have risen recently and because household formation is also rising, the multifamily sector will likely fare the best during this economy. Despite some of these promising trends, the commercial market is still experiencing high vacancy rates and rent concessions. “All real estate is local, but I expect to see vacancy rates bottoming out and rent rising by next year,” said Yun.  He also warned against some of the possible risks commercial practitioners may experience in the future such as high interest rates and inflation, as well as increased taxes for commercial real estate investors. During the session, Yun was joined by two leading economic experts, Diane Swonk, Mesirow Financial; and Brendan Reilly, Commercial Mortgage Securities Association. The panelists agreed that an improving economy and job creation continue to be the two main factors when it comes to restoring the commercial real estate market.

diy crown moulding

Thursday, May 13, 2010
posted by Craig

Crown moulding is one of the lowest cost additions you can make to a home that has possibly the greatest impact and highest return on investment. The addition of decorative moulding enables you to transform any ordinary living space bringing it a new life, charm and elegance. The installation of crown moulding can certainly be a do it yourself type of improvement. However, if you’ve decided to take on your own crown moulding installation project there are some guides you should follow to make your job run smoother and avoid material waste.

First, find out what you need for materials.
You will need to determine what type of moulding and how much of it you will need to buy. You will need to measure and mark your walls for the best estimate on materials. Measure each individual wall and round up to the next foot. If any of your walls measure within a few inches of a length of moulding always buy the next size up just to be on the safe side.

Second - create a plan of attack.
We will be installing each piece of moulding in an ordered sequence, so we should do a quick sketch of the room, top view, as if we were looking down to see which wall we start with. Let’s make this a bit easier and start with the wall opposite the door and then number each wall going counterclockwise.

Let’s also set up our guides for installation on the walls. Hold a piece of moulding at each inside and outside corner to mark the position of the bottom edge. Use a chalk line stretched between the two opposite ends to mark the wall for your installation line. Also, locate and mark the position of studs and joists just below the installation line.

Third - install the first length.
Measure your starting wall and cut the first piece of moulding square at both ends using a miter saw. Then align the piece of moulding with your installation line and begin nailing 8d finish nails working from the center out. Make sure that your nails are centered in the moulding between top and bottom.

Fourth - cutting an inside corner joint.
For inside cuts we use a coped cut to ensure that the face of the moulding joins properly. Place the moulding on the saw with the ceiling edge against the table and the bottom edge against the saw fence. Make sure that the saw is set to a 45 degree angle. If you are coping a left side corner swing the saw to the left and right for the right side. You are doing it correctly if the long edge of the moulding is on the back.

To make sure that we will have a joint that fits tightly we will now cope the inside corner joint. Mark the face of the moulding with a pen on the very edge of the miter cut. Set your coping saw at a 5 degree angle and use the pen marked edge as your guide. Hold the piece in place on the wall to make sure your fit is tight.

Note: Before moving to the next step check to see what type of cut the other end of your moulding needs. If it is another inside corner take a measurement from the top edge of the number 1 piece that you have already installed to this corner. Mark the length of this measurement on your coped moulding and use your miter saw to make a square cut. You can now nail up that piece of moulding.

Fifth - cutting an outside corner joint.
To determine the length of your moulding piece if it ends on an outside corner cut two scrap pieces of moulding at opposite 45 degree angles. Join these pieces together and hold them in place at your outside corner. We can now take a measurement from the top edge of your installed starting piece to the edge of the corner piece you are holding in place. Use that length to cut your coped piece of moulding.

Sixth - The installation process
If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding ends on an inside that does not require a coped end, repeat the measuring and cutting you just did in order to but the outside corner joining end. Then measure and cut the opposite end to but the squared end against the wall. If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding does end in a corner that requires a coped cut repeat step four and complete your outside corner.

Lastly, you will work your way around the room in this same way. Cope your inside corners and miter your outside corners. Check your measurements and make your cuts. If you run into problems like excessively uneven walls, ceilings or ceiling heights due to your house settling or shifting consult a professional to avoid any unnecessary cost and aggravation.

DIY a DOOR a DAY

Wednesday, May 12, 2010
posted by Craig

HOME DEPOT AND EBAY HAVE ALL YOUR DOOR’S [GET ONE TODAY]

A fiberglass door is not wholly made of fiberglass. For example, for aesthetic purposes some sections of the door will really contain wood in elements like paneling, despite the fact that the door will be primarily composed fiberglass. Moreover, the core of the door may be made of insulating materials. Fiberglass, previously used as an insulating material in its fiber form, is already a fine choice for energy aware homeowners. Supplementation of insulation materials to the core magnifies the underlying insulating properties of fiberglass.

Some may find that the customization routine becomes a tad overwhelming because of the huge number of options. Upwards of twenty or so types of arrangements will have to be considered by the end buyer. Furthermore, the number increases if side lights are included. Additionally, not like a material such as metal where the choices of physical look are more limited, the hue of the fiberglass door also should be chosen. The wood finish of the fiberglass should also be selected by the homeowner consumer. The styles of finish, as in those for treating wood, are antique hickory’s and cherries. Additional customization is also possible. When the layout is fixed, the consumer may request individual customization such as carvings to make the door stand out from others on the street. Glass panels may be added in pieces to the center door, or on the side lights. The brands of glass and their patterns are also available in a preponderance of styles. If extra customization is needed, the process will be more difficult.

Real estate construction firms who build buildings or individuals who have bought a house find themselves in the position of having to pick the type of entry door to put in. As the entry door plays a huge role in dictating the style of the home, it is not expected that a choice can be made lightly. But as it is, there are several choices for the contemporary house owner. A door composed of fiberglass is a popular option. Fiberglass has an abundance of properties making it a superior option over the more normal wood material. It is superbly robust, a tad cheaper, invulnerable to water and sunlight, and can be forged to the aesthetics of those preferring the appearance of wood. The surface of fiberglass can even be stained to imitate the looks of trendy woods like hickory.

How about the installation process? The installation of a replacement door has for a long period implied putting a replacement into the frame after detaching the previous one from its hinges. The modern course of action is installation of an entry system. An entry system is a wise investment because the cost can be simply recovered as it enhances the look and sell ability of the house. An entry system is made up of the door, the jamb (or frame), the threshold.

Owing to the fact that the entry system is already made, substantial customization can be chosen without compromise on price or caliber. The house owner may add some real individualized touches, or to simplify the matter, select from a list of patterns or bits that can be added to the door. Tint of stain and finish can easily be chosen. including wood and steel, fiberglass is one of the most hardened materials with possibly the cheapest maintenance overhead, meaning homeowners will not have to think of price as the top worry. The consequence is that manufacturers of fiberglass doors can spare to give better warranties. Some makers will go to the point of ensuring the door for the time of house ownership, if the Entry System is too expensive.

Plywood DIY

Monday, April 19, 2010
posted by Craig

Knowing your plywood thicknesses and UBC ratings, for a better understanding of the project in your head! Thoughts will become things, so do your due diligence.

Plywood grades are determined by a veneer quality on the face and back of each panel. The first letter designates quality of face veneer (best side), while the second letter denotes the surface quality of the back of the panel.The letter “X” indicates the panel was manufactured with scrap wood as the center plies, not “exterior” as is commonly thought. The A-D rating is only good for construction (softwood) plywood, not for hardwood plywoods such as oak or maple.plywood construction DIY building

“A”: Highest grade quality available. Can be defect free or contain small knots, providing they are replaced with wooden plugs (the fillers having a “boat” or an “American football” shape) or repaired with synthetic patch. This grade may contain occasional surface splits that are repaired with synthetic filler. The surface is always sanded and provides for smooth paintable face quality.

“B”: Second highest quality veneer grade. Normally a by-product of downgraded “A” quality veneer. Solid surface, but may contain small diameter knots and narrow surface splits. Normally repaired with wooden plugs or synthetic filler. The surface is normally sanded smooth.

“C”: Considered to be a lower end face quality, but a reasonable choice for general construction purposes. May contain tight knots up to 1½ inches diameter, some open knot holes, some face splits, and discoloration. Some manufactures may repair the defects with synthetic filler. Panels are typically not sanded.

“D”: Considered to be the lowest quality veneer and often used for the back surface for construction grade panels. Allows for several knots, large and small, as well as open knots up to 2½ inches diameter. Open knots, splits, and discoloration are acceptable. “D” grade veneers are neither repaired nor sanded. This grade is not recommended for permanent exposure to weather elements. CDX is the grade for many home construction needs, shear walls are generally built with 3/8″ cdx in which the plywood gives a anti up-lift rating for several applications including replacing wall strength value, as windows and doors take areas in a wall that actually weaken the home structural value. Any DIYer is able to get more local code information in their area, the building or planning department[s] will be happy to assist here.

Creative Wealth Strategies

Monday, March 29, 2010
posted by Craig

Perhaps you are 1 in the mix of this poor economic downward spiral, finding yourself in the midst of the “what is it I’m doing about my families future”. We’ll your not alone out there because many of us have lost our security of full time employment as well as maybe our long term financial stability with all the cut backs involved today’s slowdown with world wide production. Pundants have put the spin on this over and over, and all indicators show through 2010 it will continue to lag. Sorry for the slap in the face by the hand of reality, get over it and off your asses folks, opportunities never fail to exist in any market!diy your financial future

Time is a wasting, so DIY your own way out and thrive. Getting an education about financial literacy isn’t having to spend the next 4 years at college. Investors know about OPM, and you do not have to be well off for being able to change your life. In fact you wont have to do any beer bongs either, what you will have to do is show up and be accountable, whether it’s installing a new front door for a rental property, or saving $2500 in income tax you are taking the first steps into the new rich’s lifestyle of “let’s reinvent our thoughts” and produce that dream today. I can attest to, remodeling a bathroom with marble floors. I can also show you how to purchase a multi-family dwelling with a IRA. Pull your heads out of the sand kids, lets help all that’s not afraid to succeed in this life!

How to weatherstrip A DOOR [DIY]

Tuesday, March 9, 2010
posted by Craig

Saving dollars make more sense than anything these days, so by weatherstripping an exterior door correctly, indeed you will save money by keeping the cold air out in the winter time, as well as during the hot summer months, not “trying to cool off the whole neighborhood”. Mother knows best perhaps, and will often remind us of this.

From door bottoms or door shoe applications, all will effectively seal the interior from the exterior. But before installing either of these there hes to be a threshold on the floor first. Tools required for door weather stripping can be as simple as a hacksaw and a reversible drill/driver and a tape measure. full wrap door bottom 1 3/4"Buying the right one is important to note here, typically an interior door will be 1 3/8″ thick and exterior doors are thicker at 1 3/4″. The anodized aluminum comes in several finishes so you can choose a match per the rest of the doors hardware.

measuring from top of installed thresholdIt’s possible you may have to cut the door down a little, depending on the existing conditions. An accurate measurement is required to get the most out of your diy door sealing efforts, but on a scale of difficult being a 10, this door weather strip installation is rated at a 3. All products bought can vary so be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions first. Entry doors have that sweet closing sound with shutting and you will know the difference after your done. Snug as a bug……

Baldwin Lockset installation DIY

Wednesday, February 24, 2010
posted by Craig
There are two sizes of Baldwin mortise bodies that are commonly used on conventional residential doors as shown below. You determine which one is right for you by how much room you have on your door “lock stile” and which trimset you have selected. General door hardware specs that any DIY’er CAN DO!

The illustration below is a Baldwin mortise body with a 2.5″ backset. This means that the CENTER of whatever trimset style you select will be 2.5″ from the edge of your door. This body must be cut into the door’s edge approx 3.75″ deep. You will need to drill approx. 5,   3/4″ holes centered on the doors edge 3 1/2″ deep and remove whats left with a sharp 3/4″ wood chisel.
The illustration below is a Baldwin mortise body with a 2.75″ backset. This means that the CENTER of whatever trimset style you select will be 2.75″ from the edge of your door. This body must be cut into the door’s edge approx 4.25″ deep. This type requires a 7/8″ bit drilling 4″ deep and removing the rest with a sharp chisel.