Archive for the ‘Crown cornice molding’ Category
Pre Paint Prep with BONDO
Thats right folks the same 2 part epoxy mix that autobody shops use on cars. In SOCal where some of the new rich reside is also
where some of the best professional house painting occurs. Magazine model material, custom multi-million dollar homes with the same home improvement center paints the rest of us buy and use on our biggest investments in our IRA plans, the biggest d
ifference though is the prep work being done to create some of the finest home painting on the prestigious west coast.
I only emphasize this painting prep point, because I see the difference. Bondo or whatever brand you buy will change your homes detail of paint grade finish like night and day. Case and base nail holes, vacuum dents, mars and gouges, offset splices and even some miter joints go from nice job to vavoom. Interior spackling never really can give you that it truly is “all one piece look” but bondo does and does not shrink.
DIY crown moulding cuts
As in all the trades, different strokes theory comes to mind. Cutting crown moulding can be coped out on the second piece going up, and into the first, on the inside corners. The first image shows a cope cut for a profile inside corner cut, (paint grade). Leaving the face a little longer than the back insures a nice clean fit.


Now this is one way of getting the crown moulding miter cuts looking like a professional installed it. On a scale of easy, this being the easiest application. The most important element is understanding that a wall and ceiling is a 90 degree, the crown moulding of choice is milled to set an exact way on the wall and tight to the ceiling, if you get the outside corner cuts just exact than the diy crown moulding install becomes much easier. But note that all types vary and a jig on your saw will aide in this cutting crown moulding process. A smaller piece of scrap can assist in the narrowing down the right cuts process as well, with a left and right side test piece you will get there faster, then mark on your saw the holding place of your angle and bevel cuts. Contact me if you wish and i will help as much as i can……….
How to DIY Cut Crown Moulding
This may or may not assist you in cutting crown moulding corners. Inside miters or outside miters on a slide miter saw, can be tricky! Often times the moulding will lay upside down (bottom towards you) on the saw’s table and finding it’s proper bevel degree on the sliding miter saw’s angle notch or mark. This cut is most accurate by setting the saw on a 45 degree angel and the corresponding bevel. But the bevel will very with every different type of actual crown moulding your cutting for installation.![]()
The cuts can also be made as if the crown moulding were in the same position as it would be on the wall. Every piece of crown moulding is designed to go up a certain way and actually this means that it has a top and a bottom, and this means it sits on the wall and ceiling simultaneously. That being said, this creates a 90 degree angle, and therefor comes down the wall an exact dimension and across the ceiling away from the wall an exact dimension. Often these measurements are not equal either. So depending on your saw and the crown moulding material, the variables become quite large.![]()
Above all this particular topic could easily become a very lengthy blog, but i will be back with more and would gladly answer any pertinent questions regarding this subject of cutting miters for crown moulding.
Cornice Crown
All interior wood doors
have some finish trim to accentuate it’s appearance. The casing that wraps around and encompasses the interior door on both sides can be fairly simplistic or architecturally ornate with several different looks. The DIYer can perform these with a miter saw and a hammer.
Easy steps for beautiful options. Step #1: Choose the look and materials. Step #2: Make your margin overlay (reveal) marks onto the jamb. Step#3: Cut the side casing’s and install, the head piece often will layout to outside and even with total width of casing. Step#4: Cut and install the parting bead 1″ longer than the casing, at lower head piece, all of these can be cut square and is the easiest, but a 45 degree return will enable no end grain exposure. Step #5: cut and install the crown head piece at 45 degree’s 2″ longer than casing. Use wood glue at the end return pieces as the nail’s will tend to split them.