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Archive for the ‘Crown cornice molding’ Category
diy crown moulding
Crown moulding is one of the lowest cost additions you can make to a home that has possibly the greatest impact and highest return on investment. The addition of decorative moulding enables you to transform any ordinary living space bringing it a new life, charm and elegance. The installation of crown moulding can certainly be a do it yourself type of improvement. However, if you’ve decided to take on your own crown moulding installation project there are some guides you should follow to make your job run smoother and avoid material waste.
First, find out what you need for materials.
You will need to determine what type of moulding and how much of it you will need to buy. You will need to measure and mark your walls for the best estimate on materials. Measure each individual wall and round up to the next foot. If any of your walls measure within a few inches of a length of moulding always buy the next size up just to be on the safe side.
Second - create a plan of attack.
We will be installing each piece of moulding in an ordered sequence, so we should do a quick sketch of the room, top view, as if we were looking down to see which wall we start with. Let’s make this a bit easier and start with the wall opposite the door and then number each wall going counterclockwise.
Let’s also set up our guides for installation on the walls. Hold a piece of moulding at each inside and outside corner to mark the position of the bottom edge. Use a chalk line stretched between the two opposite ends to mark the wall for your installation line. Also, locate and mark the position of studs and joists just below the installation line.
Third - install the first length.
Measure your starting wall and cut the first piece of moulding square at both ends using a miter saw. Then align the piece of moulding with your installation line and begin nailing 8d finish nails working from the center out. Make sure that your nails are centered in the moulding between top and bottom.
Fourth - cutting an inside corner joint.
For inside cuts we use a coped cut to ensure that the face of the moulding joins properly. Place the moulding on the saw with the ceiling edge against the table and the bottom edge against the saw fence. Make sure that the saw is set to a 45 degree angle. If you are coping a left side corner swing the saw to the left and right for the right side. You are doing it correctly if the long edge of the moulding is on the back.
To make sure that we will have a joint that fits tightly we will now cope the inside corner joint. Mark the face of the moulding with a pen on the very edge of the miter cut. Set your coping saw at a 5 degree angle and use the pen marked edge as your guide. Hold the piece in place on the wall to make sure your fit is tight.
Note: Before moving to the next step check to see what type of cut the other end of your moulding needs. If it is another inside corner take a measurement from the top edge of the number 1 piece that you have already installed to this corner. Mark the length of this measurement on your coped moulding and use your miter saw to make a square cut. You can now nail up that piece of moulding.
Fifth - cutting an outside corner joint.
To determine the length of your moulding piece if it ends on an outside corner cut two scrap pieces of moulding at opposite 45 degree angles. Join these pieces together and hold them in place at your outside corner. We can now take a measurement from the top edge of your installed starting piece to the edge of the corner piece you are holding in place. Use that length to cut your coped piece of moulding.
Sixth - The installation process
If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding ends on an inside that does not require a coped end, repeat the measuring and cutting you just did in order to but the outside corner joining end. Then measure and cut the opposite end to but the squared end against the wall. If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding does end in a corner that requires a coped cut repeat step four and complete your outside corner.
Lastly, you will work your way around the room in this same way. Cope your inside corners and miter your outside corners. Check your measurements and make your cuts. If you run into problems like excessively uneven walls, ceilings or ceiling heights due to your house settling or shifting consult a professional to avoid any unnecessary cost and aggravation.
Pre Paint Prep with BONDO
Thats right folks the same 2 part epoxy mix that autobody shops use on cars. In SOCal where some of the new rich reside is also 
where some of the best professional house painting occurs. Magazine model material, custom multi-million dollar homes with the same home improvement center paints the rest of us buy and use on our biggest investments in our IRA plans, the biggest d
ifference though is the prep work being done to create some of the finest home painting on the prestigious west coast.
I only emphasize this painting prep point, because I see the difference. Bondo or whatever brand you buy will change your homes detail of paint grade finish like night and day. Case and base nail holes, vacuum dents, mars and gouges, offset splices and even some miter joints go from nice job to vavoom. Interior spackling never really can give you that it truly is “all one piece look” but bondo does and does not shrink.
DIY crown moulding cuts
As in all the trades, different strokes theory comes to mind. Cutting crown moulding can be coped out on the second piece going up, and into the first, on the inside corners. The first image shows a cope cut for a profile inside corner cut, (paint grade). Leaving the face a little longer than the back insures a nice clean fit.
Now this is one way of getting the crown moulding miter cuts looking like a professional installed it. On a scale of easy, this being the easiest application. The most important element is understanding that a wall and ceiling is a 90 degree, the crown moulding of choice is milled to set an exact way on the wall and tight to the ceiling, if you get the outside corner cuts just exact than the diy crown moulding install becomes much easier. But note that all types vary and a jig on your saw will aide in this cutting crown moulding process. A smaller piece of scrap can assist in the narrowing down the right cuts process as well, with a left and right side test piece you will get there faster, then mark on your saw the holding place of your angle and bevel cuts. Contact me if you wish and i will help as much as i can………. 
How to DIY Cut Crown Moulding
This may or may not assist you in cutting crown moulding corners. Inside miters or outside miters on a slide miter saw, can be tricky! Often times the moulding will lay upside down (bottom towards you) on the saw’s table and finding it’s proper bevel degree on the sliding miter saw’s angle notch or mark. This cut is most accurate by setting the saw on a 45 degree angel and the corresponding bevel. But the bevel will very with every different type of actual crown moulding your cutting for installation.
The cuts can also be made as if the crown moulding were in the same position as it would be on the wall. Every piece of crown moulding is designed to go up a certain way and actually this means that it has a top and a bottom, and this means it sits on the wall and ceiling simultaneously. That being said, this creates a 90 degree angle, and therefor comes down the wall an exact dimension and across the ceiling away from the wall an exact dimension. Often these measurements are not equal either. So depending on your saw and the crown moulding material, the variables become quite large.
Above all this particular topic could easily become a very lengthy blog, but i will be back with more and would gladly answer any pertinent questions regarding this subject of cutting miters for crown moulding.
Cornice Crown
All interior wood doors
have some finish trim to accentuate it’s appearance. The casing that wraps around and encompasses the interior door on both sides can be fairly simplistic or architecturally ornate with several different looks. The DIYer can perform these with a miter saw and a hammer.
Easy steps for beautiful options. Step #1: Choose the look and materials. Step #2: Make your margin overlay (reveal) marks onto the jamb. Step#3: Cut the side casing’s and install, the head piece often will layout to outside and even with total width of casing. Step#4: Cut and install the parting bead 1″ longer than the casing, at lower head piece, all of these can be cut square and is the easiest, but a 45 degree return will enable no end grain exposure. Step #5: cut and install the crown head piece at 45 degree’s 2″ longer than casing. Use wood glue at the end return pieces as the nail’s will tend to split them.