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This is an intricate subject, there is nothing perfect about construction. The fudge factor is exactly what it is, a fudge factor. Rough framing perhaps this figure nears 1/4″ or so and believe it or not that’s a metaphor for perfect.
Now when hanging a door, this gets less than an 1/8″, if you know what your doing. The point here is can there be such a thing as perfection in construction? I don’t know for sure but i do know that if when hanging a door interior or exterior I let the door predicate where the jamb ends up. Yes, the jamb is in the wall and the door is on the hinges too, with finish nails tacked in place and no casing on yet. This allows me to swing the door as well as relocate the jamb exactly where the door want’s it. Once there then the final nailing takes place and the casing cut and installed to lock her down so to speak.
Continuing on this door subject, knowing what to look for in every scenario we must be always aware of the possibilities. If the door in question has been giving us trouble than hold it ajar firmly and force it to shimmy at the hinges, up or down, in or out if it move’s, like the hinges have a little play, than you have ascertained that before any permanent adjusting the screw’s have to be tight!
Moving forward when tightening the screw(s), if only one out of the lot cannot cinch down than this home repair attempt will reoccur sooner than later. Therefore it’s time to reestablish some bite for the loose screw. Some white glue or adhesive with a hardwood dowel works best here. Replug those holes and let the glue dry, now take your vix bit or proper size drill bit and bore a new pilot hole, then fasten the hinge again and have a look.
Sounds kinda gruff maybe but perhaps this trick is a door hangers best in his bag. When a interior door isnt off by much but enough to notice by the trained eye. A bit of fudging can make all the difference in the world.
So the approach is to force the door in most often two different directions. Furring the back of the hinge on the bottom of the door will cause the margin to close on the lower right of the door and also to close the top right of the jamb at the header. And just the opposite with a deeper mortise cut at the same bottom hinge. If the need arises down the road some day because the wind caught this door and blew it open hard enough to tweak the hinge(s). Then one day it seems to catch at the jamb and the lockset appears a little funny, you’ll now know how to tackle and tweak it back to perfection
As this blog continues to evolve and comes back around time and time again, I’ll be explaining the same topic but in a different scenario or perhaps application. A series of sequences that flips the subject to cover every area inside and out.
Back to DIY interior doors, as we need to get back here and hit this a little lower. After this art has been completed and the door is hung, if its well hung it will have an even margin between the jamb and the door all the way around, about a nickles thickness in many cases, if not then this is where the hinge tweaking occurs. When is use or abuse the door will tend to rehang itself in a way that may cause the effect of sticking or rubbing, so this blog will be grouped in 10 or so to cover all aspects.
DIY door hinges are easily adjusted by furring the backs or removing a little more wood from behind, careful to not take too much or the hinge faces will touch premature
ly causing a [hingebound effect] before the DIY door is fully closed. Hardware choices will vary in price along with quality depending on your taste or wallets.
Perhaps this problematic DIY door is sticking at the upper right header and the lower right jamb, experience tells me to look at the bottom hinge, if the gap margin is large here i know there’s room to suck the door back using the hinge mortise or screws and close this gap to make it even again while pulling the top right down and low jamb right back to the left….. picture a rotating square this is the cause and effect.