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Archive for the ‘home improvement tools’ Category

Bosch Electric Jackhammer

Thursday, January 5, 2012
posted by Craig

DIY your way to a New Years start. All those home improvement projects that you wish to accomplish are within arms reach. The Bosch chipping hammer is paramount in helping get rid of the old and begin to realize your dreams. This little workhorse has saved us tons of time and sweat by doing the jackhammers job tenfold!

The Bosch 10 Amp Spline Rotary Hammer features a spline/round hex bit system that provides tool-free bit changes and automatic bit locking. A combination dual mode selector offers 2 modes of operation, rotary hammer and hammer-only. The Vario-Lock positioning system rotates and locks the hammer chisel in 12 different positions to optimize the working angle.

Many features that the Bosch 11247 excels in :

  • Delivers 3,000 BPM
  • Powerful 10 Amp motor
  • Spline/round hex bit system for tool-free bit changes with automatic bit locking
  • Integral clutch helps minimize torque reaction
  • 360 Degree auxiliary handle provides a wide range of movement and comfortable use
  • Dual mode selector supports rotary hammer and hammer-only operation
  • Vario-Lock rotates and locks the chisel into 12 different positions to optimize working angle
  • Carrying case included
  • MFG Brand Name : Bosch
  • MFG Model # : 11247
  • MFG Part # : 11247

Small enough to throw behind your truck seat but big enough to remove patio slabs in a cinch! When push comes to shove the Bosch Jack Hammer is worth its weight in gold to my team. Light and powerful for all the small to medium sized jackhammering demolish work we have encountered. DIY your way thru 2012 for all the home improvement desires you have on that list. Tools make any


JOB easier or harder, make the choice that can improve your projects! Have a great 2012 everyone!!

Scribe Molding

Friday, November 18, 2011
posted by Craig

Typically known as scribe molding every cabinet or trim molding needs to find it’s place of application. Every cabinet is set in place, shimmed, spaced , leveled and then fastened. When we have our cabinets where we want them then we must cut and , pin nailed usually with a finish nail gun , another type of trim finish molding that will take up the rest of the space that needs to be hidden or finished off so to speak.
Often times we have to cut , notch or scribe around the other parts of a room that get in the way. Moldings are the very product that when executed correctly will make or break a “Job well Done” . The image to the left here shows,  after furring out a door jamb with a jamb extension in a bathroom, the cabinet and door casing moldings meet up exactly in the same place! In another instance there is always ways to apply moldings for different looks or decorating. Such as with crown molding, base and case moldings or a common used edge molding trim piece called actual scribe mold.

Where ever these specific moldings wrap around, cover up a gap or create a cap finished look like an plant on oak Ogee arch molding. With the right miter saw and or jigsaw, you can show off your skills that pay the bills faster than you can say “Instant equity”….. why call the guy ? When YOU CAN DIY!!

Concrete Finished Countertop

Saturday, September 10, 2011
posted by Craig

This approach to creating counter space is growing daily and will give identical appearance as some of the other more expensive counter top options. Using concrete on top of cabinetry or even a pass through shelve, can certainly change the look in any room or office. Outside of the concrete color or veining techniques, the mixing and pouring is essentially identical.

Here in this concrete counter form image with reinforced steel or rebar, we have used 4″ lag screws to anchor the #3 rebar, staggered every 24″O.C. The counter or shelve here is formed to 2″ in depth and 12″ wide with the length being 10′ long between the two end points of the adjacent walls. Because it sits atop a 2×4 framed wall, it will cantilever 2″ to the kitchen area and roughly 6″ pass the other side of the same wall into the living room.

The image to the right here shows the importance of protecting the wood framing beneath with flashing paper to act as a moisture barrier and future dry-rotting adherent. The small spacers under our #3 rebar allows the new aggregate pour to completely surround the reinforcement steel for optimum strength.

DIY-Tools & Materials Needed for Your Counter Top Mix:

- plywood or melamine, plus screws to build the mold
- bagged counter-top mix (or “scratch” mix below)
- dyes or pigment if you’re coloring your counter-top
- grinder / polisher with water feed (can be rented)
- diamond polishing discs of various grit
- concrete mixer- concrete vibrating tool (can be rented)- dusts masks

…… Now DIY your own Concrete Counter-Top over almost any applicable surface!

Flex Mold DIY

Saturday, May 28, 2011
posted by Craig

We got the call to remodel a fireplace, hearth and full wrap mantle. Unique in many ways, this full wrap fireplace mantle would have a pair of arched recessed panels in the center below the crown top sitting above the columns on both sides of the fire box.
No exotic wood species here though, my clients wanted it painted white. So we built her out of 3/4″ MDF [multi-density-fiberboard] with some various El & El moldings to create something extraordinary!

Any above average painter can fau out this resin flex molding too, so even all the real wood lovers can enjoy a radius molding appearance without the extra shop tools and mind bending , wood bending tasks. Whatever the type of molding you are using, IE., baseboards, casings or even a 5 1/2″ crown molding , then the flex mold can bend – curve or wrap around to meet up with any other common or custom molding your using.

MDF full wrap mantle with Flex Moulding

Underneath the arch , a piece of flat stock was implemented to return and butt into the face of the travertine stone that was used on the wall and hearth areas of this fire place.

This resin pour custom flex mold is highly pliable and very much paintable or stained. Acts like wood when cutting – nailing – sanding or glueing , for any DIY ‘er thats ready to make a difference!My-diy.net

Flexible flat stock to aide in the return

Why call the guy? When YOU can DIY!!

DIY Concrete Counter Top

Tuesday, March 22, 2011
posted by Craig

This approach to creating counter space is growing daily and will give identical appearance as some of the other more expensive counter top options. Using concrete on top of cabinetry or even a pass through shelve, can certainly change the look in any room or office. Outside of the concrete color or veining techniques, the mixing and pouring is essentially identical.

Here in this concrete counter form image with reinforced steel or rebar, we have used 4″ lag screws to anchor the #3 rebar,  staggered  every 24″O.C.  The counter or shelve here is formed to 2″ in depth and 12″ wide with the length being 10′ long between the two end points of the adjacent walls. Because it sits atop a 2×4 framed wall, it will cantilever 2″ to the kitchen area and roughly 6″ pass the other side of the same wall into the living room.

The image to the left here shows the importance of protecting the wood framing beneath with flashing paper to act as a moisture barrier and future dry-rotting adherent. The small spacers under our #3 rebar allows the new aggregate pour to completely surround the reinforcement steel for optimum strength.

DIY-Tools & Materials Needed for Your Counter Top Mix:

- plywood or melamine, plus screws to build the mold
- bagged countertop mix (or “scratch” mix below)
- dyes or pigment if you’re coloring your counter-top

- grinder / polisher with water feed (can be rented)
- diamond polishing discs of various grit

- Tupperware or similar sandwich containers to make concrete samples

- concrete mixer- concrete vibrating tool (can be rented)- dusts masks

- eye protection- ear protection


Pouring a concrete countertop is DIY project. Truthfully, it isn’t like curing cancer to mix and pour concrete well, but… getting the mixture, the technique, and the finishing just right takes a little practice.

That’s why it’s a good idea to make sample pours first so that you can get an idea what you’re working with and how small variations in the concrete mix can make a difference.

Many people start with a premixed concrete countertop mix. They are specially formulated to be flowable and high strength with plasticizer that makes it flow well even at a low water / cement ratio.

A low water / cement ratio is important for a good result that resists cracking. The Quikrete mix has high enough flow that the need for mechanical vibration is minimized, and it’s made for minimal shrinkage.

Alternately, you could start with regular bagged concrete mix that is rated for a hardness of 5,000 psi or greater, available @ Home Depot or most of your home improvement centers.

Here is a counter top mix you can make “from scratch” that’s enough to make a small test block and that can be scaled up by weight.

You can use a kitchen or postal scale to weigh out the sample measurements. It is recommended that you use white sand and white cement to maximize your color options:

Product / Weight in Grams

Portland Cement 210g

Sand 625g

Nycon G nylon fiber 1g

Metakaolin 30g

Fritz-Pak FR1 Water Reducer 5g

Water 80-90g

If you’re using Quickrete Countertop Mix or Sackrete 5000, or some other pre-mixed countertop mix, start with about 875 grams of dry mix and about 85 grams of water to make a sample.

Whether you’re using a bag concrete mix or my “scratch” concrete countertop recipe, use the smallest amount of water necessary to craft a mix that you can work with.


With color, try weighing out a small amount (a teaspoonful, for example) of the pigment and adding it to your sample.

Of course, you can only estimate how it’s going to look once it’s cured, but again, you have to start somewhere.

Write down how many grams of colorant you use in every batch so you’ll have a basis for guessing how much more or less you need in subsequent samples and so you’ll also know about how much you’ll need for the final product once you get the color you want.

If you want a darker concrete countertop – all the way to a dark charcoal gray – start with Home Depot’s Quickrete Countertop Mix, which is darker than the scratch recipe above, and add charcoal colorant.

Start with one bottle per bag of concrete countertop mix when mixing the final countertop.

Of course you can still experiment with the colorant in your sample slabs.

After you’ve poured your sample, allowed it to set and removed it, ask yourself what’s right and what’s wrong about it. Color will likely be the thing that determines what you should try next.


When you have a sample that pleases you, keep it and let it cure under conditions as close to the curing conditions of the final countertop as possible.

In fact, you should keep all of your samples so you can try out your concrete polishing and sealing techniques on them. Once you have your sample smoothed to the finish you want, you can seal it, according to the directions or you can seal it with  beeswax (which may not be the best at standing up to what the average kitchen countertop endures) or even pure tung oil (like what is used on wood). It depends on the final look you want.

This Home is Safe & Comfy for Everyone

Monday, September 27, 2010
posted by DI-Myself

antiqueI love watching the show “Extreme Makeover: Home Edition” and one of my favorite episodes was that of the house built for a deaf couple who had two kids, the youngest of which was blind and autistic. Each bedroom definitely catered to their extra-special needs, employing technology and child care expert to make the house safe and comfy for everyone.

The host’s secret project was to create tool sheds for the dad, who works as a mechanic. The shed was filled with everything a mechanic and budding carpenter would need: drills, nuts and bolts, antique hand saws, everything. The father was overwhelmed, since he said it’s been a long time since someone did something special for him. When their eldest boy saw his dad’s tears, he knew he said thank you from his heart.

Steps to a cleaner Hand-Saw

Sunday, August 15, 2010
posted by Craig



Cleaning a hand saw
isn’t very difficult, although it is messy. Being prepared with the proper equipment and selecting a place with good ventilation will help make the job easier.
All and any of your power tools need care as well, let’s get started on hand saws for now.
Next, for cleaning your hand saw, gather the following materials:

o A thin-bladed screwdriver (only needed if you are removing the handle)

o Mineral spirits

o A razor blade with a safe razor blade holder

o Silicon carbide sandpaper

o Boiled linseed oil

o Steel wool

o Paper towels

o Rags

o Paste wax

o Protective gloves

CAUTION: This is a very important safety issue. Mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil, paper towels and rags make a dangerous combination that can spontaneously combust if left unattended in a pile. Proper precautions should be taken to dispose of these items after use. Rags soaked in linseed oil should be laid out flat outdoors away from any structures to dry. When completely dry, they may be put in the trash. Store rags soaked in mineral spirits in a plastic bag away from all structures until dry before disposing of them. Do not use mineral spirits near an open flame, as the vapor can catch fire. Even the pilot light on your furnace or hot water heater may be enough to ignite the vapors. Mineral spirits can also cause nerve damage if used for a prolonged period or in a confined space. Make sure you have good ventilation and that you are not using the mineral spirits for long periods of time. If you don’t feel comfortable working with these hazardous materials, you may want to hire this job out. Safety first!

Now we’re ready to begin.

If you need to remove the handle, use a proper-fitting screwdriver. Be sure to place the screws somewhere secure where they won’t get misplaced. If the saw is very rusty, it may take a bit of effort to pull off the handle.

Once you’ve removed the handle, place the saw blade on a board or other flat surface. Use the razor blade to scrape off rust, dirt, wax or other crud that has built up on the surface. Work from the handle end towards the tip of the saw. Repeat the process on the other side.

Now that any loose debris has been removed apply a small amount of mineral spirits to the saw blade. Take a small square of the silicon carbide sandpaper and apply it to the blade using the mineral spirits as a lubricant. Move the sandpaper along the length of the blade, not back and forth from the teeth to the back. When you’re done, wipe off any excess spirits with paper towels. Repeat on the other side then set the blade aside to dry.

Use the razor to scrape any build-up off of the handle. Finish with steel wool. If the handle looks dry, use a rag to apply a small amount of boiled linseed oil. Make sure all surfaces are well-coated. Remove any excess oil with a clean rag. The handle should be completely dry in a couple of days.

Wipe down the dry hand saw blade with a rag to remove any residue, and apply some paste wax with a clean rag to protect the blade from future rust. Let the wax dry for ten minutes, then buff off any excess. Reassemble the handle when it has fully dried.

Hand Saw “teeth”

Saturday, August 7, 2010
posted by Craig

A hand saw is one of the more basic tools, so you may not have given much thought to the proper way to use one. However, like other hand and power tools, using proper form and technique with a hand saw is important for your safety as well as achieving your desired result.

First and foremost, reading the documentation packaged with the saw is advised. All hand saws are not the same, so following the recommendations from the manufacturer will help you both use the saw properly and protect yourself. Hand saws come in different types that are designed for various purposes, so be sure you are using the right kind of saw for the task at hand. For instance, some saws are designed to cut with the grain, while others are designed for cutting against the grain.

Ensure your saw blade is sharp and clean before you begin. The first step to using a hand saw – determining exactly where the cut will be made – begins before you pick up the saw. Create a line to guide your cut, double checking that your measurements and angles are correct. Also ensure that the surface to be cut is stable.fine hand saws

Start sawing slightly to the outside of the line to account for the width of the blade. Hold the saw such that your wrist, shoulder and the handle of the saw are lined up, and you are not sawing at an angle that feels unnatural. Professionals generally advise holding a hand saw with all of the fingers except the pointer, which should be straight and pointed in the direction of the cut. But, be sure to check the documentation to ensure that you are holding the saw according to recommendations. Remember that cutting should be done on the down stroke. Apply pressure to the saw as you push downward on the cut, but release pressure as you pull the saw back toward yourself. Getting into a steady rhythm as you saw will help you achieve the cleanest cut.

If you are inexperienced with hand saws, you may want to practice cutting on a scrap piece of wood before you move on to the real cut. It bears repeating that all saws are not the same, so be sure to read the documentation outlining the proper use of your fine hand saw.

Bath Tub Fixtures (WHY)

Saturday, July 3, 2010
posted by Craig

After a long day, one of the things you would be craving for is a warm long bath. A great bath tub can become your best friend at the end of the day. Many people upgrade their tubs with bath tub faucets to make it more delightful to use. Increasing the value of their largest investment, Real Estate. Nowadays, bath tub faucets come in all shapes and sizes so you have countless of options to choose from.

One of the newest things in this industry today is the touch faucet innovation. Some of the touch faucet brands in the market today are Delta and Kohler. The Delta 980T – SSSD is equipped with the latest Touch 20 technology and is one of the leading products in the market. The price of Delta touch sensor faucet in Amazon is $348. Listed at the original price of $585, you would be able to save around $40 when you purchase it in Amazon. It has a Pilar design which was inspired by technology and nature combined. It also features a Magnatite spray head to secure tight fit. Additionally, this product also boasts its Diamond Seal technology which utilizes an electronic valve along with a diamond coating, making it more durable and guaranteed to last a lifetime.

If you want a Zen-styled bathroom, a faucet Asian waterfall nickel sink would be the best way to go. You can find one in Amazon, like the model SV15, which is an oriental inspired bathroom sink and faucet that sells for $425. This product has marble sink which is handcrafted and a brushed nickel faucet finish. The sink is about 1″ thick and colored black and grey. The product includes a pop up drain and a limited lifetime warranty. Bath tub faucets with an Asian design will also go along well with a Zen inspired bathroom. Vintage themes are also popular. You can add vintage glass fixtures for bathroom or look for modern floor mount bathtub faucets if you want a contemporary, modern look.

For a modern styled bathroom, most people choose ceiling mount tub fillers or custom ceiling tub faucets with a contemporary sleek modern finish. This is one of the most unique kinds of bath tub faucets ever thought of. A bath faucet from ceiling mounts is a great statement of modern style. You can find the Kohler K922 CP ceiling mount bath filler at Amazon for $323.86. The product has a solid brass construction and a polished chrome finish for more durability and resistance to tarnish and corrosion. It has a 2 centimeter orifice and weighs about 5.6 lbs. This product can be used for dual purposes. Aside from filling your tub, it can also be used as a shower. The minimalist style is also the modern style so if you want this kind of bathroom, don’t overdo decorations and fixtures. Look for fittings that possess simplicity and clean finishes.

Bath tub faucets, no matter what design, should complement and match the overall look of your bathroom. Before buying a faucet that interests you, think about the kind of look you want to achieve first. Compare the different styles that you want and canvas on some of the things you need to buy. Remember, you don’t have to spend too much and hire a contractor or decorator for this. Just have in mind the right idea, and the great products to go along with it.

setting PreCast Concrete

Monday, May 31, 2010
posted by Craig

Many variation of precast tiles can all be installed anywhere such as tile, precast fire place mantels or precast exterior window and door accents. Precast concrete steps or stairs, for instance are applied such as ceramic tile with thin set adhesives and grout. A masonry diamond grinder or skilsaw blade can cut with ease and prefit into place as a dry run.

 lathe and prefloat the stucco pror installation of precast concretesupport heavy precast concrete Remove any loose or broken surface concrete or stucco to allow your precast concrete to bond as if its all one piece. After window was in place we also added some expanded wire for holding the grout and creating a bond reinforcement that wont crack. These precast stones need to be supported while the thin set dries for 24 hours. This is another fantastic way to accent the exterior finish for a better resale future value return on your investments.