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Typically known as scribe molding every cabinet or trim molding needs to find it’s place of application. Every cabinet is set in place, shimmed, spaced , leveled and then fastened. When we have our cabinets where we want them then we must cut and , pin nailed usually with a finish nail gun , another type of trim finish molding that will take up the rest of the space that needs to be hidden or finished off so to speak.
Often times we have to cut , notch or scribe around the other parts of a room that get in the way. Moldings are the very product that when executed correctly will make or break a “Job well Done” . The image to the left here shows, after furring out a door jamb with a jamb extension in a bathroom, the cabinet and door casing moldings meet up exactly in the same place! In another instance there is always ways to apply moldings for different looks or decorating. Such as with crown molding, base and case moldings or a common used edge molding trim piece called actual scribe mold.
Where ever these specific moldings wrap around, cover up a gap or create a cap finished look like an plant on oak Ogee arch molding. With the right miter saw and or jigsaw, you can show off your skills that pay the bills faster than you can say “Instant equity”….. why call the guy ? When YOU CAN DIY!!
We got the call to remodel a fireplace, hearth and full wrap mantle. Unique in many ways, this full wrap fireplace mantle would have a pair of arched recessed panels in the center below the crown top sitting above the columns on both sides of the fire box.
No exotic wood species here though, my clients wanted it painted white. So we built her out of 3/4″ MDF [multi-density-fiberboard] with some various El & El moldings to create something extraordinary!
Any above average painter can fau out this resin flex molding too, so even all the real wood lovers can enjoy a radius molding appearance without the extra shop tools and mind bending , wood bending tasks. Whatever the type of molding you are using, IE., baseboards, casings or even a 5 1/2″ crown molding , then the flex mold can bend – curve or wrap around to meet up with any other common or custom molding your using.
MDF full wrap mantle with Flex Moulding
Underneath the arch , a piece of flat stock was implemented to return and butt into the face of the travertine stone that was used on the wall and hearth areas of this fire place.
This resin pour custom flex mold is highly pliable and very much paintable or stained. Acts like wood when cutting – nailing – sanding or glueing , for any DIY ‘er thats ready to make a difference!My-diy.net
Flexible flat stock to aide in the return
Why call the guy? When YOU can DIY!!
Crown moulding is one of the lowest cost additions you can make to a home that has possibly the greatest impact and highest return on investment. The addition of decorative moulding enables you to transform any ordinary living space bringing it a new life, charm and elegance. The installation of crown moulding can certainly be a do it yourself type of improvement. However, if you’ve decided to take on your own crown moulding installation project there are some guides you should follow to make your job run smoother and avoid material waste.
First, find out what you need for materials.
You will need to determine what type of moulding and how much of it you will need to buy. You will need to measure and mark your walls for the best estimate on materials. Measure each individual wall and round up to the next foot. If any of your walls measure within a few inches of a length of moulding always buy the next size up just to be on the safe side.
Second – create a plan of attack.
We will be installing each piece of moulding in an ordered sequence, so we should do a quick sketch of the room, top view, as if we were looking down to see which wall we start with. Let’s make this a bit easier and start with the wall opposite the door and then number each wall going counterclockwise.
Let’s also set up our guides for installation on the walls. Hold a piece of moulding at each inside and outside corner to mark the position of the bottom edge. Use a chalk line stretched between the two opposite ends to mark the wall for your installation line. Also, locate and mark the position of studs and joists just below the installation line.
Third – install the first length.
Measure your starting wall and cut the first piece of moulding square at both ends using a miter saw. Then align the piece of moulding with your installation line and begin nailing 8d finish nails working from the center out. Make sure that your nails are centered in the moulding between top and bottom.
Fourth – cutting an inside corner joint.
For inside cuts we use a coped cut to ensure that the face of the moulding joins properly. Place the moulding on the saw with the ceiling edge against the table and the bottom edge against the saw fence. Make sure that the saw is set to a 45 degree angle. If you are coping a left side corner swing the saw to the left and right for the right side. You are doing it correctly if the long edge of the moulding is on the back.
To make sure that we will have a joint that fits tightly we will now cope the inside corner joint. Mark the face of the moulding with a pen on the very edge of the miter cut. Set your coping saw at a 5 degree angle and use the pen marked edge as your guide. Hold the piece in place on the wall to make sure your fit is tight.
Note: Before moving to the next step check to see what type of cut the other end of your moulding needs. If it is another inside corner take a measurement from the top edge of the number 1 piece that you have already installed to this corner. Mark the length of this measurement on your coped moulding and use your miter saw to make a square cut. You can now nail up that piece of moulding.
Fifth – cutting an outside corner joint.
To determine the length of your moulding piece if it ends on an outside corner cut two scrap pieces of moulding at opposite 45 degree angles. Join these pieces together and hold them in place at your outside corner. We can now take a measurement from the top edge of your installed starting piece to the edge of the corner piece you are holding in place. Use that length to cut your coped piece of moulding.
Sixth – The installation process
If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding ends on an inside that does not require a coped end, repeat the measuring and cutting you just did in order to but the outside corner joining end. Then measure and cut the opposite end to but the squared end against the wall. If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding does end in a corner that requires a coped cut repeat step four and complete your outside corner.
Lastly, you will work your way around the room in this same way. Cope your inside corners and miter your outside corners. Check your measurements and make your cuts. If you run into problems like excessively uneven walls, ceilings or ceiling heights due to your house settling or shifting consult a professional to avoid any unnecessary cost and aggravation.
Home affordable foreclosure alternatives. As for banks, they’ll face loan losses, but HAFA could trim expenses.”The new plan doesn’t keep people in their homes, but it does eliminate the costs of foreclosing properties and the deterioration of value associated with vacancies,” Cooper said.Banks often spend $20,000 to $40,000 to take a home all the way through foreclosure. Short sales can be the cheaper option, says Eli Tene, president of Woodland Hills, Calif.-based I Short Sale.
“Any savings through short sales will help,” Tene said. “But once (HAFA) kicks off, it will have limited success as it reaches only about a quarter of homeowners in trouble.”
Short sales have become more common, but they’ve been hard to pull off. They can take months, even more than a year to complete, says Leonard Baron, a real estate professor at San Diego State University. To understand all the complexities the investor needs better knowledge of the tools he can obtain. Just like the weekend DIY warrior, tools make the job! That new combo slide miter saw that enables quick and accurate crown molding cuts for the fixer needing a face lift.
Thats right folks the same 2 part epoxy mix that autobody shops use on cars. In SOCal where some of the new rich reside is also 
where some of the best professional house painting occurs. Magazine model material, custom multi-million dollar homes with the same home improvement center paints the rest of us buy and use on our biggest investments in our IRA plans, the biggest d
ifference though is the prep work being done to create some of the finest home painting on the prestigious west coast.
I only emphasize this painting prep point, because I see the difference. Bondo or whatever brand you buy will change your homes detail of paint grade finish like night and day. Case and base nail holes, vacuum dents, mars and gouges, offset splices and even some miter joints go from nice job to vavoom. Interior spackling never really can give you that it truly is “all one piece look” but bondo does and does not shrink.
As in all the trades, different strokes theory comes to mind. Cutting crown moulding can be coped out on the second piece going up, and into the first, on the inside corners. The first image shows a cope cut for a profile inside corner cut, (paint grade). Leaving the face a little longer than the back insures a nice clean fit.
Now this is one way of getting the crown moulding miter cuts looking like a professional installed it. On a scale of easy, this being the easiest application. The most important element is understanding that a wall and ceiling is a 90 degree, the crown moulding of choice is milled to set an exact way on the wall and tight to the ceiling, if you get the outside corner cuts just exact than the diy crown moulding install becomes much easier. But note that all types vary and a jig on your saw will aide in this cutting crown moulding process. A smaller piece of scrap can assist in the narrowing down the right cuts process as well, with a left and right side test piece you will get there faster, then mark on your saw the holding place of your angle and bevel cuts. Contact me if you wish and i will help as much as i can………. 