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Archive for the ‘real estate’ Category

Bosch Electric Jackhammer

Thursday, January 5, 2012
posted by Craig

DIY your way to a New Years start. All those home improvement projects that you wish to accomplish are within arms reach. The Bosch chipping hammer is paramount in helping get rid of the old and begin to realize your dreams. This little workhorse has saved us tons of time and sweat by doing the jackhammers job tenfold!

The Bosch 10 Amp Spline Rotary Hammer features a spline/round hex bit system that provides tool-free bit changes and automatic bit locking. A combination dual mode selector offers 2 modes of operation, rotary hammer and hammer-only. The Vario-Lock positioning system rotates and locks the hammer chisel in 12 different positions to optimize the working angle.

Many features that the Bosch 11247 excels in :

  • Delivers 3,000 BPM
  • Powerful 10 Amp motor
  • Spline/round hex bit system for tool-free bit changes with automatic bit locking
  • Integral clutch helps minimize torque reaction
  • 360 Degree auxiliary handle provides a wide range of movement and comfortable use
  • Dual mode selector supports rotary hammer and hammer-only operation
  • Vario-Lock rotates and locks the chisel into 12 different positions to optimize working angle
  • Carrying case included
  • MFG Brand Name : Bosch
  • MFG Model # : 11247
  • MFG Part # : 11247

Small enough to throw behind your truck seat but big enough to remove patio slabs in a cinch! When push comes to shove the Bosch Jack Hammer is worth its weight in gold to my team. Light and powerful for all the small to medium sized jackhammering demolish work we have encountered. DIY your way thru 2012 for all the home improvement desires you have on that list. Tools make any


JOB easier or harder, make the choice that can improve your projects! Have a great 2012 everyone!!

Scribe Molding

Friday, November 18, 2011
posted by Craig

Typically known as scribe molding every cabinet or trim molding needs to find it’s place of application. Every cabinet is set in place, shimmed, spaced , leveled and then fastened. When we have our cabinets where we want them then we must cut and , pin nailed usually with a finish nail gun , another type of trim finish molding that will take up the rest of the space that needs to be hidden or finished off so to speak.
Often times we have to cut , notch or scribe around the other parts of a room that get in the way. Moldings are the very product that when executed correctly will make or break a “Job well Done” . The image to the left here shows,  after furring out a door jamb with a jamb extension in a bathroom, the cabinet and door casing moldings meet up exactly in the same place! In another instance there is always ways to apply moldings for different looks or decorating. Such as with crown molding, base and case moldings or a common used edge molding trim piece called actual scribe mold.

Where ever these specific moldings wrap around, cover up a gap or create a cap finished look like an plant on oak Ogee arch molding. With the right miter saw and or jigsaw, you can show off your skills that pay the bills faster than you can say “Instant equity”….. why call the guy ? When YOU CAN DIY!!

WaterProofing a Window (How-To)

Monday, October 17, 2011
posted by Craig
When installing windows, new or even replacement windows will apply. No tricks here, Just common sense. Sealing the exterior from getting to the interior is quality done by proper Flashing[s]!

Fibrous materials work wonderfully, but sheet metal flashing is the ACME of getting the job done right the first time.  As things fall from above, it is paramount to start @ the bottom and working to the top or lower 1st and top last , to ensure your window flashing’s can overlap correctly. This window image above was cut or kerfed to allow an insertion type seal.
           Now the side window flashing’s pieces are set and nailed with a galvanized 3d headed fastener , as these lay on top or over your bottom area.

 As the side sections reach the very top of your window, they need to tuck underneath your exterior wrapping of the home or real estate pertaining to your project! Any DIY’er can easily installing a window or door that will not leak… period!

 The wire lathe can now be stapled here for our future stucco patching. Thanks to all for your continued support, so leave any questions as usual and proceed taking your homes back!! :)

Concrete Finished Countertop

Saturday, September 10, 2011
posted by Craig

This approach to creating counter space is growing daily and will give identical appearance as some of the other more expensive counter top options. Using concrete on top of cabinetry or even a pass through shelve, can certainly change the look in any room or office. Outside of the concrete color or veining techniques, the mixing and pouring is essentially identical.

Here in this concrete counter form image with reinforced steel or rebar, we have used 4″ lag screws to anchor the #3 rebar, staggered every 24″O.C. The counter or shelve here is formed to 2″ in depth and 12″ wide with the length being 10′ long between the two end points of the adjacent walls. Because it sits atop a 2×4 framed wall, it will cantilever 2″ to the kitchen area and roughly 6″ pass the other side of the same wall into the living room.

The image to the right here shows the importance of protecting the wood framing beneath with flashing paper to act as a moisture barrier and future dry-rotting adherent. The small spacers under our #3 rebar allows the new aggregate pour to completely surround the reinforcement steel for optimum strength.

DIY-Tools & Materials Needed for Your Counter Top Mix:

- plywood or melamine, plus screws to build the mold
- bagged counter-top mix (or “scratch” mix below)
- dyes or pigment if you’re coloring your counter-top
- grinder / polisher with water feed (can be rented)
- diamond polishing discs of various grit
- concrete mixer- concrete vibrating tool (can be rented)- dusts masks

…… Now DIY your own Concrete Counter-Top over almost any applicable surface!

Flex Mold DIY

Saturday, May 28, 2011
posted by Craig

We got the call to remodel a fireplace, hearth and full wrap mantle. Unique in many ways, this full wrap fireplace mantle would have a pair of arched recessed panels in the center below the crown top sitting above the columns on both sides of the fire box.
No exotic wood species here though, my clients wanted it painted white. So we built her out of 3/4″ MDF [multi-density-fiberboard] with some various El & El moldings to create something extraordinary!

Any above average painter can fau out this resin flex molding too, so even all the real wood lovers can enjoy a radius molding appearance without the extra shop tools and mind bending , wood bending tasks. Whatever the type of molding you are using, IE., baseboards, casings or even a 5 1/2″ crown molding , then the flex mold can bend – curve or wrap around to meet up with any other common or custom molding your using.

MDF full wrap mantle with Flex Moulding

Underneath the arch , a piece of flat stock was implemented to return and butt into the face of the travertine stone that was used on the wall and hearth areas of this fire place.

This resin pour custom flex mold is highly pliable and very much paintable or stained. Acts like wood when cutting – nailing – sanding or glueing , for any DIY ‘er thats ready to make a difference!My-diy.net

Flexible flat stock to aide in the return

Why call the guy? When YOU can DIY!!

DIY Concrete Counter Top

Tuesday, March 22, 2011
posted by Craig

This approach to creating counter space is growing daily and will give identical appearance as some of the other more expensive counter top options. Using concrete on top of cabinetry or even a pass through shelve, can certainly change the look in any room or office. Outside of the concrete color or veining techniques, the mixing and pouring is essentially identical.

Here in this concrete counter form image with reinforced steel or rebar, we have used 4″ lag screws to anchor the #3 rebar,  staggered  every 24″O.C.  The counter or shelve here is formed to 2″ in depth and 12″ wide with the length being 10′ long between the two end points of the adjacent walls. Because it sits atop a 2×4 framed wall, it will cantilever 2″ to the kitchen area and roughly 6″ pass the other side of the same wall into the living room.

The image to the left here shows the importance of protecting the wood framing beneath with flashing paper to act as a moisture barrier and future dry-rotting adherent. The small spacers under our #3 rebar allows the new aggregate pour to completely surround the reinforcement steel for optimum strength.

DIY-Tools & Materials Needed for Your Counter Top Mix:

- plywood or melamine, plus screws to build the mold
- bagged countertop mix (or “scratch” mix below)
- dyes or pigment if you’re coloring your counter-top

- grinder / polisher with water feed (can be rented)
- diamond polishing discs of various grit

- Tupperware or similar sandwich containers to make concrete samples

- concrete mixer- concrete vibrating tool (can be rented)- dusts masks

- eye protection- ear protection


Pouring a concrete countertop is DIY project. Truthfully, it isn’t like curing cancer to mix and pour concrete well, but… getting the mixture, the technique, and the finishing just right takes a little practice.

That’s why it’s a good idea to make sample pours first so that you can get an idea what you’re working with and how small variations in the concrete mix can make a difference.

Many people start with a premixed concrete countertop mix. They are specially formulated to be flowable and high strength with plasticizer that makes it flow well even at a low water / cement ratio.

A low water / cement ratio is important for a good result that resists cracking. The Quikrete mix has high enough flow that the need for mechanical vibration is minimized, and it’s made for minimal shrinkage.

Alternately, you could start with regular bagged concrete mix that is rated for a hardness of 5,000 psi or greater, available @ Home Depot or most of your home improvement centers.

Here is a counter top mix you can make “from scratch” that’s enough to make a small test block and that can be scaled up by weight.

You can use a kitchen or postal scale to weigh out the sample measurements. It is recommended that you use white sand and white cement to maximize your color options:

Product / Weight in Grams

Portland Cement 210g

Sand 625g

Nycon G nylon fiber 1g

Metakaolin 30g

Fritz-Pak FR1 Water Reducer 5g

Water 80-90g

If you’re using Quickrete Countertop Mix or Sackrete 5000, or some other pre-mixed countertop mix, start with about 875 grams of dry mix and about 85 grams of water to make a sample.

Whether you’re using a bag concrete mix or my “scratch” concrete countertop recipe, use the smallest amount of water necessary to craft a mix that you can work with.


With color, try weighing out a small amount (a teaspoonful, for example) of the pigment and adding it to your sample.

Of course, you can only estimate how it’s going to look once it’s cured, but again, you have to start somewhere.

Write down how many grams of colorant you use in every batch so you’ll have a basis for guessing how much more or less you need in subsequent samples and so you’ll also know about how much you’ll need for the final product once you get the color you want.

If you want a darker concrete countertop – all the way to a dark charcoal gray – start with Home Depot’s Quickrete Countertop Mix, which is darker than the scratch recipe above, and add charcoal colorant.

Start with one bottle per bag of concrete countertop mix when mixing the final countertop.

Of course you can still experiment with the colorant in your sample slabs.

After you’ve poured your sample, allowed it to set and removed it, ask yourself what’s right and what’s wrong about it. Color will likely be the thing that determines what you should try next.


When you have a sample that pleases you, keep it and let it cure under conditions as close to the curing conditions of the final countertop as possible.

In fact, you should keep all of your samples so you can try out your concrete polishing and sealing techniques on them. Once you have your sample smoothed to the finish you want, you can seal it, according to the directions or you can seal it with  beeswax (which may not be the best at standing up to what the average kitchen countertop endures) or even pure tung oil (like what is used on wood). It depends on the final look you want.

TREX Decking Re-call

Thursday, January 27, 2011
posted by Craig

Trex Nightmare: Having  had over $3,500.00 worth of Trex Decking installed. The material bought in Feb. 2005, for my front deck, is deteriorating. Not mold or mildew but flaking off of surface. This deck has had only rain water. Trex sent two people to evaluate my problem and their report to Trex resulted in them offering me $380.84 for replacing 220 lin ft. of decking.???

The story continues:

My quote for this replacement material amounted to $647.44. It will cost me another $400.00 in labor to dismantle and reinstall.—My back deck , installed late in 2005, has so far, shown problems on only 2 boards, 20 ft. long.—The problem starts with bubbling and then completely deteriorates by flaking off of surface material.–This was obviously a bad run of material, as several other decks of same time period have had exactly the same problem.Trex manufactures claim “to make it right”  said they have been good about replacing the material but in my case they do not want to replace this much material. I have heard nothing from them since refusing their offer. Their warranty on their product is 25 yrs.–They want me to accept half price of material, do all the labor myself and sign a full and final release for all of my Trex decking. I bought 1540 lin. ft @Approx. $2.20 per ft. when doing my decks. The same material is now $2.60 per lin.ft.–

That story tells the truth about composite decking material, although it can be worked (drilled-notched-sawed) much like lumber, it is man made and this particular batch end up imploding itself. Internal mold issues caused premature delamination and forced a class action suite against TREX. I believe in lumber, built right the first time and looks and feels natural a redwood deck is the way to go.

If you plan on DIY decking in your future, weigh the difference and consider your geographical location. East coast vs. West coast IE., but either way it turns out, you will have improved to curb appeal of your home and will most likely recoup any out of pocket expense (ROI) from that home improvement. Here @ MY-DIY ……….Done Right the first Time!



Foreclosures to Persist

Tuesday, August 10, 2010
posted by Craig

Foreclosures to persist

According to authors at the Federal Reserve Bank of Cleveland, the nation’s high foreclosure rate is likely to persist.  The Fed article looks at the changes in foreclosure and unemployment rates across states, noting the differences in the timing of the movements.  The conjecture that the high foreclosure rate will persist is based in part on the observation that states that experienced boom-bust housing cycles in the past (Texas, Oklahoma, Massachusetts and California) had elevated foreclosure starts for years after the peak in foreclosure starts and inventory.  These previous boom-bust cycles “were small in comparison to the current cycle,” the article said.  While the recession has left deep scars in the housing and labor markets — with the unemployment rate doubling and the foreclosure start rate roughly tripling — the timing of the movements differs over the cycle, according to the abstract, written by the vice president at the Federal Reserve Bank of Cleveland, and K.F., a research assistant.

In So-Cal every Wednesday morning there is a short sale workshop open to the public, allowing homeowners, agents, brokers or investors the opportunity to see and participate in how and why this has been changing communities across our nation. Join us this week or any week for a fulfilling chance at making a difference in the lives of others.

** When to seek outside investors to help fund your growing real estate portfolio so it’s only natural that we should also spend a little time talking about the pro’s and con’s of various investor types. Not every investor is created equal; the trick is to learn how to find the ones that bring the most value and the least constraints to the relationship. Here is a quick overview of the most commonly encountered types of outside investors and how each may play an important role depending upon your current needs.

1. High Net Worth, Experienced in Industry, Exceptional Contacts. This is the most desirable outside investor possible. Not only does this person have sufficient capital to invest but their industry and professional affiliations can open doors that would otherwise be ‘off limits’. Not only do you benefit from access to capital but even more importantly, learn from their experience and expertise while meeting the “right” people. However, preparation is essential and a wrong step could have dire consequences for years to come.

2.  High Net Worth, Experienced in Industry, Related Contacts. This can be a win-win situation for those that are long on short sale or real estate experience but a bit short on cash; by teaming up with someone that has plenty of cash sitting idle you are able to provide the expertise required to put it to work. Often these persons have valuable contacts outside of real estate; for example, doctors, lawyers and other professionals. It may be necessary to provide extensive explanation and education prior to investing in order to put the person or group at ease.

3. High Net Worth, Experienced in Industry, High Contacts. Plain and simple, this is one of the most frequently encountered types of investors the novice short sale entrepreneur is likely to encounter; someone simply seeking a return on their money rather than watching it waste away in a bank account or the bond market. Although the money is often a welcome addition to your individual growth plans, it often comes with a rather steep price tag…a lot of oversight and explanation. Family member, retirees and small investment groups often fall into this category which can add even greater volatility to the equation.

If you know someone in danger of losing their home to foreclosure and need some professional assistance, do them a huge favor and give them my personal email::: 3feet2go@gmail.com I CAN HELP THEM!


IMF warns of double dip

Saturday, July 10, 2010
posted by Craig

The International Monetary Fund (IMF) warns that “the backlog of foreclosures and high levels of negative equity, combined with elevated unemployment, pose risks of a double dip in housing.”  further support for foreclosure mitigation under the existing framework may be needed if the housing market were to weaken,” IMF wrote, adding that a worst-case scenario may include reconsideration of mortgage cram-downs within bankruptcy.  The IMF noted that recent reform legislation emphasizes a return to “safe securitization” of assets like mortgages through greater oversight and accountability for ratings agencies, more transparency of the assets, greater emphasis on investor due diligence and “skin in the game” for originators.  In need of Foreclosure Relief, I can Assist!

“Given the large role that securitization played in the past, and the potential limits to bank balance sheets for creating credit, speedy implementation of these measures would be essential to avoid limits on credit supply that could crimp the recovery,” IMF said. “It will also be important to coordinate reforms domestically and internationally to ensure safe securitization and promote a level playing field.”  In the meantime, the housing finance system remains “costly, inefficient and complex,” according to the note.  The IMF also recommended a clarification of government-sponsored enterprise (GSE) mandates and a privatization of their retained portfolios. Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac’s core bundling and guarantee business lines “should be made explicitly public,” the IMF said.

Please feel free to visit our Foreclosure Relief Page, to understand their are other options!