Check Local Availability
check your local store, for in store pickup
check your local store, for in store pickup
check your local store, for in store pickup
![builders level [common excavation use]](http://www.my-diy-blog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/thumbnail-5.jpg "builders level [common excavation use]")
Funny thing about this new age gizmo, laser levels are very accurate and can be extremely helpful in many area’s of home improvement projects. Being highly unlikely that any home, such as yours, is perfectly level. From the floor up to the ceilings, you will be surprised at exactly how far out of level most homes end up in the final escrow stages or purchasing ready product. Rather than fret though, the old saying is simply ” close enough”, and not to worry because the off kilter numbers in mention here is within a 1/4″ to 3/4″ of an inch, in eight feet. More importantly, there are some types of finish cabinetry work that better be within an 1/8″ inch for styles and margins to appear and function right.
Stanley makes a great laser level that shoots an awesome beam up to 60′ or so and will aide in many outdoor home improvements like a sweeping deck or masonry block wall, where the ends need to equal the whole by the time you adjoin the opposing sides from a distance. The down side is you have to level the laser in place for it to pivot and do its function’s. Which is said here because it can be a difficult and frustrating process. Every make or model of laser levels has good and not so good points to consider, so pick your poison.
![stanley laser [manual pre-leveling]](http://www.my-diy-blog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/thumbnail-4.jpg "stanley laser [manual pre-leveling]")
The other selection is a 4 AA battery operated laser level tool that is a gem but mostly for indoor usage. The sun tends to supersede the red laser light beam and you cannot make it work past 10 or 12 feet, because you cannot find the laser light to measure or mark, period. But the good feature on some of these is that if placed on a small flt surface [paint bucket] the self leveling adjust before, and then signals when it is ready. When storing from non usage remove the batteries, though.
A Broken window glass repair, can be replaced by regular glass or by plastic unbreakable glass. Before starting to replace broken glass, put on a pair of gloves and a pair of glasses. It can be dangerous, so wear gloves and eye protection. Glass, in both wood and metal frames, is normally held in place by a pin point. In wood these are usually glazers points, a small triangle of thin metal. In metal spring clips are used. Putty or glazing compound is then applied to keep out rain. The following steps are suggested for replacing broken window glass:
*Carefully remove all pieces of glass being careful to clean up the area around the window to prevent injury and cuts. Use pliers to grip pieces of glass still in the window.
*With a chisel or jackknife, remove the old putty. Be careful not to gouge the wood frame. As you proceed around the frame you will find glaziers points (small steel triangles) in wood frames or spring clips in metal window frames. Save the points or clips. Be sure all old putty is removed so the glass will slide into place easily.
*With sandpaper or detail dremel tool IE., clean off bits of putty which remain on the window sash frame.
*Back prime the raw frame with an oil based wood preservative or an oil base primer. This enables protection and seals the wood surface under the putty and prevents the metal frame from corrosion. As well as deter any swelling from moisture.
*Measure the size of the glass or clear opening. A steel rule may sag causing errors in dimensions. Allow 1/8″ clearance on all sides so reduce each measured dimension by 1/4″. Most home improvement centers will cut the glass for free for you.
*Put a thin ribbon of glazing compound in the groove on the frame for the glass to rest on. Keep the thickness of this glazing compound fairly uniform so when you press the glass down into the compound it will not crack.
*Install the glass, press it onto the glazing compound and insert the saved pin points,which you removed. Push these in with a large screwdriver. If you use a hammer be careful not to break the glass. The points should be placed every 6″ to 8″.
*Work the glazing compound and form it into strings no bigger than a pencil. Lay a string of compound along one side at a time and force it onto the glass and wood frame with the tip of a putty knife. Smudges from the compound can be removed later with a cloth dipped in mineral spirits or turpentine. Another great job well done by the PRO DIY’er.
As many of us new home owners can attest to, the home requires quite a bit of work. We pull the trigger on the location, today’s price range and the total layout of the home itself. Although the former owners had some work done to put it on the market, there is still many areas that need improving. Take that back patio aluminum slider for instance and surely it could be upgraded for looks, if not to be more energy efficient. So lets DIY our new windows. 
Taking for granite the want here is to change the size (width) there will be some demo needed to expose the exteriors nail fin. Otherwise proper dimensions for a retro replacement application is your procedure here. Using a vinyl or wooden line of product should not change anything. Once the demo has been completed, your new windows rough opening has to change via reframing. The header typically can stay if going smaller in width and adding some extra trimmer studs will suffice. When enlarging, the header has to come out and span the length of the new support posts or king studs to ensure the structural integrity is maintained. Some codes forbid certain square footage overages on the particular sides of your home. Check for city or county requirements locally to avoid any conflicts later on.
Okay the orders been in for a week or so and you got the call that your new replacement windows are ready for pickup. Now that thought of how to install replacement windows is on your mind. So lets get started, removal of all the existing patrs must come out so the replacement can fit like designed. Wood sash double hung are the trickiest, so lets go here, the parting beads are usually pressure fit into the dado cut, so get a grab with a sharp object and pry away from jamb to remove, and remove any trim moulding’s also. Now you can pull each sash out or in and remove the cable weight plates or cut the cords to disconnect.
A lot of the older double hung frames will appear that the inside frame is another bead but understand the new window needs to seat tight against this. Okay for dry fit run, you want nothing to be too tight because the new window can’t be forced to a point of any extra pressure binding on your new windows moving parts. Now open and close the window slowly and shim if needed for the smoothest operation. Now depending on how big the window is? This will change how many screws to install. After a good caulking all the way around the outside perimeter, the fasteners need only be 2 max at top and at least 2 per each side. Note: these fasteners ( for security reasons ) should be applied on the inside half of the frame, so nothing can have access to these from the outside. Great job BTW, trim inside out as you wish!