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Total bath redo is on the mark, we need a list of items to best work with in this 5×7 area thats covered in tile 4′ feet up the walls and to the ceiling around the tub. 8′-1″ ceiling height, 1 sink and vanity, 1 toilet and 1 tub with 1 mirrored medicine cab/light, on 1 switch.
Okay, a good hammer with straight claws, a flat prybar, set of wrenches and adjustable wrench. A small trash can will be of great use once you get the toilet out, so flush the toilet and shut the water supply off @ both here and the sink, now store only if to be reused. Cut any caulking around sink and or vanity and stuff a rag in the drain pipes for safety and smarts. Clear out any extra’s as your gonna need all the room you can get. Keep the door on for now even if it swings in, it will help corral the debris later.
As promised for the next 25 posts or so this blog will be reflecting on a series of home improvement 
info relative to a full bath remodel. From the bare naked studs and sub straight plywood on above the subfloor framing members.
One complete bathroom, meaning 1 shower/tub combo, 1 vanity with a single sink basin and 1 toilet. Typical full service bathroom that every house contains in this universe, generally typing of coarse. We’ll take you from demo stages into the rough placement of lighting, fans, shower valve exchange with stone or tile surround above the new tub, an in depth redo done right the first time.
“The power to think consecutively and deeply with clarity,is an avowed and deadly enemy to mistakes and blunders, superstitions, unscientific theories, irrational beliefs, unbridled enthusiasm and fanaticism”- Haddock
To conclude this mini series on interior doors it’s important to note the door stop is your best friend. Inanimate sure but an ally all the way to the paint job. The hinge side on the jamb will have to be held away 3/16″ or so to allow the swing clearance from the door.
The minute gap here does become closed as it raps around the jamb to the other side of the leg all the way to the floor. Lock side of door is a 1/16″ or essentially tight. As the door closes the stop mould hides the crack between the doors edge and face of jamb for visual, now closed the door and look at the door around the jamb, this side of the jamb in the closed and latched spot, the door should be flush with the edge of the jamb and slightly resting against the door stop mould on the other side. If not then this is where your ally, the door stop is tacked and adjusted for final nailing. This moulding can help the final door’s resting place.
To all my readers: technical specs will never superseed practical applications! It may confuse the brightest of brain’s, but only up to the point of actual hands on experience……..
Turn on the lighting fixture and nothing? Jiggle the bulb, go back to the switch and turn it on again, nothing? Expose the bulb and when removing it, the glass breaks at the end and now the metal threaded contact has broken off inside the socket and needs to be removed.
Okay, no need to fret. A pair of needle nose pliers will solve this issue lickety split. First and foremost make certain the power is off. If unable to see then get a flashlight, and put the pliers between the screwed in part of bulb and the actual fixture, the male and female if you will. Get a bite on the male piece and gently unscrew this part out. The switch at the wall in general terms will cut the power to the light, If uncertain then go to the main power source and turn off. Put light back on the subject.
The door has been up and working for years, and all the while when thought has been implemented, this door makes quite a bit of ruckus even when closed. A/C comes on and you hear a thud? Breeze is a blowing, and with the window open you put it together that this same thud has been coming from the same door.
While closed the door will catch the latch on the jamb, so the lock set will depress past the strike plate and jump back into the strike plate hole in the jamb to hold and lock when desired. If these components are laid out and installed correctly then so be it. But when off just a smidgen, there can be enough play for the door to jiggle in and out. Tight against the stop moulding and latched at the strike plate with minimal play, inside the strike many of these have an adjustable tab when needed. This tab often can be bent towards the closed direction of the door to take up any play and stop that annoying thud.
In part as a whole the door stop around the interior door jamb can be called a plant on or an application moulding. This trim has more than one function though. Known as the door stop, that’s it’s main purpose, to keep the door from traveling past it’s closed position.
More often than i care to admit is the fact that a door slab, depending on age, pre conditions and possibly how and where it was stored, grows to be not so flat. This causes all sorts of twists in the space it has to be hung. But the door stop will aide in this due process. Wall conditions as well as non plumb or ill building procedure’s can take it’s toll. So cause and effect takes precedence, the door stop can be adjustable to create corrections to the problems.
This is an intricate subject, there is nothing perfect about construction. The fudge factor is exactly what it is, a fudge factor. Rough framing perhaps this figure nears 1/4″ or so and believe it or not that’s a metaphor for perfect.
Now when hanging a door, this gets less than an 1/8″, if you know what your doing. The point here is can there be such a thing as perfection in construction? I don’t know for sure but i do know that if when hanging a door interior or exterior I let the door predicate where the jamb ends up. Yes, the jamb is in the wall and the door is on the hinges too, with finish nails tacked in place and no casing on yet. This allows me to swing the door as well as relocate the jamb exactly where the door want’s it. Once there then the final nailing takes place and the casing cut and installed to lock her down so to speak.
Continuing on this door subject, knowing what to look for in every scenario we must be always aware of the possibilities. If the door in question has been giving us trouble than hold it ajar firmly and force it to shimmy at the hinges, up or down, in or out if it move’s, like the hinges have a little play, than you have ascertained that before any permanent adjusting the screw’s have to be tight!
Moving forward when tightening the screw(s), if only one out of the lot cannot cinch down than this home repair attempt will reoccur sooner than later. Therefore it’s time to reestablish some bite for the loose screw. Some white glue or adhesive with a hardwood dowel works best here. Replug those holes and let the glue dry, now take your vix bit or proper size drill bit and bore a new pilot hole, then fasten the hinge again and have a look.
Sounds kinda gruff maybe but perhaps this trick is a door hangers best in his bag. When a interior door isnt off by much but enough to notice by the trained eye. A bit of fudging can make all the difference in the world.
So the approach is to force the door in most often two different directions. Furring the back of the hinge on the bottom of the door will cause the margin to close on the lower right of the door and also to close the top right of the jamb at the header. And just the opposite with a deeper mortise cut at the same bottom hinge. If the need arises down the road some day because the wind caught this door and blew it open hard enough to tweak the hinge(s). Then one day it seems to catch at the jamb and the lockset appears a little funny, you’ll now know how to tackle and tweak it back to perfection
Now that fall is just a few months away, many homeowners are looking to upgrade the insulating properties of their abodes. If reduced heating costs weren’t incentive enough to replace drafty windows, the federal government has sweetened the pot even further. The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 includes a provision that rewards homeowners for replacing their windows. Specifically, they become eligible for a tax credit covering 30 percent of the cost of the new windows.
While replacement windows are beneficial to your personal comfort and your pocketbook, they also go a long way toward improving the environment. By taking the time to seal in the heat this winter, you’re helping to reduce the cost of energy for every local homeowner. The project is relatively inexpensive, and it can be completed well before the winds turn cold and autumn sets in.