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Give us a moment and take a note or two on how to build a drawer box a phase of installing cabinets. The cabinet cubby hole has an width opening of 15″ between the face frame and is 32″ tall with a depth of 18″. The 36″ high opening allows for a group of drawers so with any variation we can use depending on our storage needs. IE three 10″ boxes give us 6″ left. So most milled drawer sides come in even numbered widths such as 4,6,8,10 inch to facilitate accordingly. And these come in 1/2″ thick veneered plywood finishes.
Typical drawer slide hardware come in 2″ increments as well. And are measured in lengths, 12, 14, 16, 18 inch etc. And are 1/2″ x 2, thick which give us even numbers to work or 1″. Our box cavity is 18-5/8″ exactly so we want to use the 18″ slide and cut our pullout sides 18″ too. Coming already rabbited 1/4″ for the drawer bottom the drawer side stock typically come in 8′ sticks. Being 15″ wide from face frame clearance and doing the math we come up with 15″ minus 1″ sides plus 1″ slides, this gives us a cut measurement, front and back drawer components of 13″ cut. Now when assembled makeup the 15″ and fill the cubby compartment perfectly. These can be almost any type of material we want, maple hardwood in this case.
Perhaps the things that appear on the surface are not always what they seem. But when a job falls short of expectation’s in our minds it’s relative to unfinished business. How to install ceramic tile properly is the easy segment here but how to incorporate the other elements involved and do it as if we were never ever even there is the goal.
When this detail has been left undone it never looks ok in the eye of an artist, ceramic tile up against the base boards or door jamb with an added element of a grout line vs. the jamb and base boards sitting atop the flooring and appearing a finished professional product. Would we ever consider tiling up to the toilet as opposed to pulling the loo and tiling to the waste flange first with the toilet now sitting above our tile floor? Exactly our thoughts, do it right the first time or don’t do it at all.
As we enter a room the eye has a predominate way of natural viewing, and when lines are involved like particular patterns such as ceramic floor tile shapes and seams, well we want this to be a pro’s perspective. Our floor in this bath is not that long and not even that wide, so any incongruencies will be accentuated harshly. That being said the center of the door is the predominate spot. As we enter this area with the loo and the sink vanity on the left their is 5′ of wall on the right and the face of the vanity is 3′ (or three tiles out of seven per) so this will pick up all visual fouls if you will.
Going for the middle tile to be centered versus the seam or butt joint being the center we want to keep this as close as possible and the double check the straight back to the bathtub as to how equal or even will our cuts be and make any adjustments now accordingly, although the base board will hide a little it’s paramount for a nice even reveal all the way back. Since the level pouring we can now lock and load, with thin setting the tiles, all the whole or full pieces as we set and work our way back to the doorway or exit. And tomorrow finish up around the back of the toilet as well as any cuts needed before they go down for good.
Unbelievable is the best way to describe this new age of DIY Plumbing. When the last time about a year ago we got the call for something to do with a leak, in which we discovered although we could not see it, that a copper line some how developed a pin hole mini misting leak. Inside the wall underneath the tub it was there and it was producing moisture all the while black mold with many a little creature making homes nearby. This particular leak would have only been accessible had the tub and tile been demo’ed out of the way or on the other side of the wall in the kitchen, granite top as well as a portion of the lower cabinetry dismantled and installed again, now getting into the $ 2000.00 US range!
After a few calls and an extensive conversation with the home owner at the time, we came upon a newer line of fittings and figured if we can get one hand on the pipe we were able to cut, sand any burrs and push on the product sold to us that could keep this job near $200.00 US , well it would be at least worth a try!
Within minutes we had the water back on and a dry hand testing and testing until we were convinced that this newfangled plumbing fitting has just revolutionized the art of sweating/soldering copper plumbing forever. You CAN DO IT!
The bathroom is ready for the floor to be covered and we are going with a 12″ ceramic flat tile that will bring a visual marriage to the shower tiles on the walls. After placing a level on the slab floor we have come to the conclusion that it’s very out of level in a relative short distance up to 3/4″ from lowest to the highest peak. Lucky for us the high point is located at the door transition, where tile meets the carpet in the hallway and will not be an issue.
We want to pour a leveling agent that can go from 0″ to 3/4″ and not crack or breakup over time. The liquid will find its own level and fill the low area as we pour. We have marked the borders here as to not over fill. The agent we have chosen is for leveling uneven wood or concrete floors. A quick setting, non-shrinking compound with excellent adhesive qualities for leveling and repairing uneven surfaces before the installation of ceramic tile of a resilient floor. Waiting for the curing process and the we can apply the tile over this with thin set.
After all has been hung and nailed or screwed off we can now begin the mudding process. Pre mixed drywall compound can be bought in a few different ways. Basically in a box or in a bucket and ready to be used as is, although you may add a little water and mix it in to make it more fluid and less stiff for your drywall finishing ease.
Taping joints is the act of covering any seams to bring an even flowing appearance and looking as it’s all uniform.
When mud has been applied over the seam first we then cut our piece of tape to length and place onto the seam(illustrated @ left) . The mudding compound acts as a glue for the tape and can then be knifed smooth by applying another coat of mud over the tape to cover entirely as a first rough coat.
The corner seams get the same approach only the tape will be pre-folded prior to installing, NOTE: if gaps in seams are big it is not necessary to fill the void with mud. The drywall compound mud need only be applied behind and on top of the tape completely. If not you will see what looks like bubbles in the tape, this is where the mud was not there and caused the tape to not adhere.
I understand it’s hard, maybe even not possible in the mind set, but i’ve did this alot because it had to get done and no help was available at the time. What Im trying to say is with the right techniques we can do anything, even how to install a full sheet of drywall on the ceiling.
A solo approach to hanging a sheet of drywall overhead, we need help right. Well instead of another person use a cleat on the wall , a little holder if you will. Getting this through the door alone is harder for me. But i want to use the ladder as a shelve first, now im in the room and have the sheet balanced on the ladder, it cant fall because the walls to the left and right of me are the ends of the drywall as well, and the third wall is now in front of me 48″ away. Now with the ladder placed just right as i did my pre dry run I also have the cleat to hold the sheet from falling, and with 4 drywall nails on the sheet from my pre layout marks im golden, awkward yes but really not too heavy for one person at all. AS I guide it onto the cleat I now raise it and hold pressure against the ceiling with my non hammering hand and grab my hammer and nail her home. We only do some things out of pure need but by all means enlist a helper every chance you get.
When a toilet begins to leak it can cause other problems within your bathroom including damage to your flooring or even the sub flooring depending how long the water has sat there. It can even destroy the ceiling and the frame work you have. Most times these sneaky leaks come from the fill valve or flush valve, but on a very rare case though it starts with cracks in the hairline tank.
These Challenges you could face with the toilet might have you replace the tank or in a worst case scenario replace the toilet all together. The Toilet Repair you might have to do depends on the leaks that I mentioned earlier. If its worst case scenario it might cost you some money to either replace the whole toilet or have somebody come out and fix the problem at hand.
The water supply line that comes out of the wall or floor has a handle and when turned one way or the other will open or close and turn on or off the water to that particular plumbing fixture. The plumbing pipe coming out could be one of several types and depending on which type of plumbing repair pipe will dictate the type of angle stop is being used. Copper pipe typically being 1/2″ if not sweated on will be a compression fit angle stop.
Like the one to the right here, this large nut encompasses a washer inside and when slipped over the copper supply line, the washer will crimp around and seal itself onto the valve body, to then give you control over on/off and variable water pressure at the turn of the handle.
The angle stop on the left here is of a 1/2″ pipe threaded type and is common in any brass or galvanized pipe nipple application, theoretically both of these more used angle stops are of a mechanical based application that any person with 2 wrenches can put on or take off. The weekend DIY warrior need only one voice in their heads to reassure them they can DIY plumbing repair.
Thats right it’s time to cover it all up in this bathroom. 1/2″ drywall on the ceiling and 5/8″ on the walls, the ceiling is going up first so we need to get some dimensions. There is one fan/light to cut for and we’ll take two measurements, the first coming from the corner above the tub and with a 4′ x 8′ sheet we have to cut the length off at 62″ with the fan getting only notched here because its 42″ from back wall and 28″ from the left wall. And to make this accurate we need to realize it has to be installed upside down. In other words it becomes exactly the opposite on the saw horses? Because it gets flipped over the top becomes the bottom and the numbers have to be pulled from the correct sides. 
Okay got it? Now with the marks made take your sharp bladed utility knife and score into the face of the drywall sheet about a third of the way through. Pull the sheet past the edge of the table it’s on until the cut line is at the edge and the cutoff will fall to the floor (get clearance to fold it down) with pressure lifting up and pushing down at the cut it will snap on the line and hinge off the table. Not free yet we have to now score and cut the back of the drywall’s paper at the hinged cut. It will drop free and were off to hang the first piece drywall on this project.