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Archive for May, 2010

setting PreCast Concrete

Monday, May 31, 2010
posted by Craig

Many variation of precast tiles can all be installed anywhere such as tile, precast fire place mantels or precast exterior window and door accents. Precast concrete steps or stairs, for instance are applied such as ceramic tile with thin set adhesives and grout. A masonry diamond grinder or skilsaw blade can cut with ease and prefit into place as a dry run.

 lathe and prefloat the stucco pror installation of precast concretesupport heavy precast concrete Remove any loose or broken surface concrete or stucco to allow your precast concrete to bond as if its all one piece. After window was in place we also added some expanded wire for holding the grout and creating a bond reinforcement that wont crack. These precast stones need to be supported while the thin set dries for 24 hours. This is another fantastic way to accent the exterior finish for a better resale future value return on your investments.

Better Your Bathroom

Thursday, May 27, 2010
posted by DI-Myself

bathroomremodelUnfortunately for those in the process of selling their home, it’s not a seller’s market. It’s a buyer’s market. And, that means that home owners should be striving to gain an edge on other sellers. That may mean renovations, paint or applying some unique home decor ideas.

People shopping for homes often say eager home sellers overlook bathrooms. Redecorating or remodeling your bathroom will eventually pay off. Unfortunately, remodeling a bathroom usually requires a plumber, painter, and cabinet installer—and all these services cost money. A good bathroom remodel, however, can increase the price of a home by dozens of thousands of dollars. And many improvements, such as installing ceramic tile, are relatively easy for even the most inept handyman.

Heating a Tile Floor

Monday, May 24, 2010
posted by Craig

Tile over tile means exactly what it says, but in this case you’re going to sandwich a layer of radiant heating mats between the old and the new tile. Tile over tile is an easy way to avoid the mess associated with tearing up the old bathroom floor, but requires thorough planning.

Deflection:

Before you install a radiant heat mat over the old bathroom tile and install new tile over the mat, you should check the floor for deflection. This is the maximum amount the floor can move under the anticipated load (you). Ceramic tile is hard and will break or dislodge if the surface bends under the load. Here’s a simple test:

Stand in the middle of the bathroom floor and jump up and down. If the floor moves it has a deflection problem and is not a good candidate for tile over tile installation until you reinforce the sub-floor.

Avoid That Sinking Feeling:sub-ceramic tile heat mats

Since you’re tiling over tile, you must plan in advance to avoid making the vanity, toilet and tub look like they’re “sinking” into the new floor.

Fortunately, many of the new radiant heating mats are no thicker than the depth of the mortar you would ordinarily apply for most tile installations. Combine this with a tile thickness of ¼ inch and the maximum elevation above the old floor would be only ½ inch.

One way to keep the bathroom fixtures from looking swallowed up by the new floor is to remove and reinstall the baseboard. Better yet, why not buy new baseboard tile to complement the new floor?

The raised height of the new floor will also require you to adjust the length of the door(s) and possibly install a new threshold.

Preparation:

Remove or re-attach broken tile pieces. If you remove them, wait until the floor has been sanded and thoroughly vacuumed before you fill the spaces with mortar.

If any of the tiles have checks wider than 1/8”, you should consider a crack isolation membrane. This membrane is a roll on product that you apply to the old tile. The membrane allows the new floor to move independently of the old.

Next, sand the old tile so the mortar has a good bonding surface. A belt sander would ensure a consistent bonding surface.

Please make sure you wear a face mask and safety glasses while sanding. The tiles may have been fired with toxic lead glaze.

After sanding, vacuum the tile and wipe down with an all purpose cleaner. Pay special attention to the areas untouched by the sander.

Installation:

Roll out the mats prefabricated to your specifications by the manufacturer. Some radiant systems, like Quickmat, are self-adhesive and require no mortar to secure them to the old tile floor.

If you’re re-tiling the only bathroom, keep a board and some scrap 2 x 4’s handy to protect the mats when the bathroom is being used.

Throughout the installation process, use a digital ohm meter to check the resistance of the heating mats. This will help you monitor the mats for short circuits.

Have your electrician connect the heating mats to the power source and install the thermostat. Depending on the local electrical inspection procedures, you might have to wait until the job is inspected before you start laying tile.

Trowel out the mortar over the mats. Some manufacturers recommend latex- modified or epoxy-modified mortar and grout instead of water-based multi-purpose adhesives. Mortar beds thicker than 3/8 inch should work fine for most systems; they just take slightly longer to heat up.

Since you won’t be covering the entire floor with heating mats, make sure the mortar applied over open areas, (under the toilet) is level with the mortar covered mats.

Don’t bang the trowel on the mat or heating wire to remove excess mortar from the trowel. This could sever the heating wire.

At this point, you would lay the tile. If you have no experience tiling, practice on your neighbor’s bathroom floor.

Fire It Up!

Your new radiant heated bathroom floor looks beautiful and you can’t wait to get warm feet. Go ahead, but only for 10 minutes. Don’t put the system into full operation until the mortar is fully cured. This can take up to four weeks. See why thorough planning is so important?

Mortgage Rates Fall

Saturday, May 22, 2010
posted by Craig

Mortgage Rates Hit New Lows in Two Weekly Surveys

Mortgage rates dropped again this week, setting new records in two weekly surveys, the result of investor flight from European investments. The Freddie Mac weekly survey put the average rate for a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage (FRM) at 4.84% with a 0.7 origination point for the week ending May 20, down from last week’s average of  4.93%. A year ago, the 30-year FRM averaged 4.82%. The 25-year-old Bankrate.com weekly survey of large banks and thrifts put the average rate for a 30-year FRM at 4.96% with a 0.5 origination point, the lowest in the history of the survey.

Despite the end of the Federal Reserve mortgage-backed securities (MBS) purchase program, mortgage rates are at their lowest point all year. As Europe responds to the Greek debt crisis, the euro is plummeting compared to the dollar. Investors are turning to American investments that, for the moment, seem safer. However, some argue that debt levels in the US are also as risky as in Europe. “People rush to us for ‘safety,’ although we’re Greece — we just haven’t gotten there yet,” Anthony Sanders, distinguished professor of real estate finance at George Mason University, told Bankrate.com.  Sanders added US interest rates will rise once European and Chinese economies recover. Freddie said the 15-year FRM averaged 4.24% with an average 0.7 point, down from last week’s average of 4.3% and a year ago, when the average was 4.5%.  Freddie said the five-year Treasury-indexed hybrid adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) averaged 3.91% with a 0.6 point, down from last week’s average
of 3.95% and a year ago, when it averaged 4.79%. It’s the lowest average rate for the product since October 2004, when it averaged 3.96%.

Is it a better time now more than yesterday to get that bathroom remodel done, YES YES YES emphatically yes is your answer……

How To Choose Kitchen Cabinets

Thursday, May 20, 2010
posted by Craig

Choosing kitchen cabinets doesn’t have to be confusing. With a little research on your part you’ll know what to ask for, what you want and need, and where to find it. All while saving the most money you possibly can.

First – Decide what you need, what you want, and what you can afford.kitchen cabinet remodel

  • What style are you looking for? Shaker, Country, Retro, Classic, New England, Cottage?
  • Are you open to suggestions and ideas?
  • Do you want wood, laminate, frame cabinets or frameless (Euro-style)?
  • What type of countertops are you going with? Laminate, solid surface, marble, granite, quartz, concrete, tile, glass?
  • Do you need an entirely new kitchen, just a bath vanity, or only a rollout fixed?
  • Do you need help with the entire process, which means you might need to hire or be your own contractor, or is your project small?
  • What is your budget? If you have $200 you can paint your cabinets for a fresh look or get new handles or knobs. If you have $5,000 or more you will be able to get an entirely new kitchen, depending on size. If you have $10,000 you might even begin thinking about remodeling (changing walls, plumbing, etc.). Kitchens really can run from a few thousand to several tens of thousands depending on where you live and what you want. You’ll pay much more for a kitchen in New England or Oregon than you will in Kentucky or Wisconsin.

Thinking about these questions will help get you going in the right direction.

Commercial Real Estate

Tuesday, May 18, 2010
posted by Craig

Commercial Market Still Strugglingcommercial plumbing valves

While the commercial real estate market may not have fully recovered, National Association of Realtors Chief Economist Lawrence Yun identified some developing, positive trends in the market that could eventually lead to recovery at the “Economics Issues and Commercial Business Trends Forum.”  Yun said jobs only began increasing a couple of months ago and are still below peak. The commercial market has seen a few improving trends in recent months. The market is experiencing an increase in transactions due to more distressed properties available needing various levels of plumbing repairs IE., and prices are beginning to stabilize. Yun believes within the next year more lending will slowly become accessible to commercial property owners.

Two commercial sectors showing the most promise are manufacturing and multifamily. Manufacturing activity and employment have risen recently and because household formation is also rising, the multifamily sector will likely fare the best during this economy. Despite some of these promising trends, the commercial market is still experiencing high vacancy rates and rent concessions. “All real estate is local, but I expect to see vacancy rates bottoming out and rent rising by next year,” said Yun.  He also warned against some of the possible risks commercial practitioners may experience in the future such as high interest rates and inflation, as well as increased taxes for commercial real estate investors. During the session, Yun was joined by two leading economic experts, Diane Swonk, Mesirow Financial; and Brendan Reilly, Commercial Mortgage Securities Association. The panelists agreed that an improving economy and job creation continue to be the two main factors when it comes to restoring the commercial real estate market.

Is Cash King?

Sunday, May 16, 2010
posted by Craig

* The 4 market cycles that all free market economies
go through, how to recognize when we are moving into a new
cycle, and most importantly, how to get rich in the cycle we
are in and the coming cycle.

* Discover the 3 real estate niches, and learn how to utilize
all 3 niches to create long term wealth in real estate

* Long term wealth in real estate is not made flipping every
house you short sale.  It is made owning real estate. And
owning real estate is simple and easy when you have the right
systems in place and learn how to do it. In fact, it is easier
than flipping a house to an end buyer.

* Why he believes Cash is not king, Cash Flow is. And he will
prove it to you.

* Learn how to safely and quickly remarket properties for
above market and have the buyer not even blink an eye… You’ll
even learn how to make the buyer completely ecstatic with the
deal and take care of the house like an owner would.

All this is possible in the real world once you understand how to leverage your tools for growth and nail down any future chances of getting an education in the market of a life time…….

diy crown moulding

Thursday, May 13, 2010
posted by Craig

Crown moulding is one of the lowest cost additions you can make to a home that has possibly the greatest impact and highest return on investment. The addition of decorative moulding enables you to transform any ordinary living space bringing it a new life, charm and elegance. The installation of crown moulding can certainly be a do it yourself type of improvement. However, if you’ve decided to take on your own crown moulding installation project there are some guides you should follow to make your job run smoother and avoid material waste.

First, find out what you need for materials.
You will need to determine what type of moulding and how much of it you will need to buy. You will need to measure and mark your walls for the best estimate on materials. Measure each individual wall and round up to the next foot. If any of your walls measure within a few inches of a length of moulding always buy the next size up just to be on the safe side.

Second – create a plan of attack.
We will be installing each piece of moulding in an ordered sequence, so we should do a quick sketch of the room, top view, as if we were looking down to see which wall we start with. Let’s make this a bit easier and start with the wall opposite the door and then number each wall going counterclockwise.

Let’s also set up our guides for installation on the walls. Hold a piece of moulding at each inside and outside corner to mark the position of the bottom edge. Use a chalk line stretched between the two opposite ends to mark the wall for your installation line. Also, locate and mark the position of studs and joists just below the installation line.

Third – install the first length.
Measure your starting wall and cut the first piece of moulding square at both ends using a miter saw. Then align the piece of moulding with your installation line and begin nailing 8d finish nails working from the center out. Make sure that your nails are centered in the moulding between top and bottom.

Fourth – cutting an inside corner joint.
For inside cuts we use a coped cut to ensure that the face of the moulding joins properly. Place the moulding on the saw with the ceiling edge against the table and the bottom edge against the saw fence. Make sure that the saw is set to a 45 degree angle. If you are coping a left side corner swing the saw to the left and right for the right side. You are doing it correctly if the long edge of the moulding is on the back.

To make sure that we will have a joint that fits tightly we will now cope the inside corner joint. Mark the face of the moulding with a pen on the very edge of the miter cut. Set your coping saw at a 5 degree angle and use the pen marked edge as your guide. Hold the piece in place on the wall to make sure your fit is tight.

Note: Before moving to the next step check to see what type of cut the other end of your moulding needs. If it is another inside corner take a measurement from the top edge of the number 1 piece that you have already installed to this corner. Mark the length of this measurement on your coped moulding and use your miter saw to make a square cut. You can now nail up that piece of moulding.

Fifth – cutting an outside corner joint.
To determine the length of your moulding piece if it ends on an outside corner cut two scrap pieces of moulding at opposite 45 degree angles. Join these pieces together and hold them in place at your outside corner. We can now take a measurement from the top edge of your installed starting piece to the edge of the corner piece you are holding in place. Use that length to cut your coped piece of moulding.

Sixth – The installation process
If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding ends on an inside that does not require a coped end, repeat the measuring and cutting you just did in order to but the outside corner joining end. Then measure and cut the opposite end to but the squared end against the wall. If the opposite end of your next piece of moulding does end in a corner that requires a coped cut repeat step four and complete your outside corner.

Lastly, you will work your way around the room in this same way. Cope your inside corners and miter your outside corners. Check your measurements and make your cuts. If you run into problems like excessively uneven walls, ceilings or ceiling heights due to your house settling or shifting consult a professional to avoid any unnecessary cost and aggravation.

DIY a DOOR a DAY

Wednesday, May 12, 2010
posted by Craig

HOME DEPOT AND EBAY HAVE ALL YOUR DOOR’S [GET ONE TODAY]

A fiberglass door is not wholly made of fiberglass. For example, for aesthetic purposes some sections of the door will really contain wood in elements like paneling, despite the fact that the door will be primarily composed fiberglass. Moreover, the core of the door may be made of insulating materials. Fiberglass, previously used as an insulating material in its fiber form, is already a fine choice for energy aware homeowners. Supplementation of insulation materials to the core magnifies the underlying insulating properties of fiberglass.

Some may find that the customization routine becomes a tad overwhelming because of the huge number of options. Upwards of twenty or so types of arrangements will have to be considered by the end buyer. Furthermore, the number increases if side lights are included. Additionally, not like a material such as metal where the choices of physical look are more limited, the hue of the fiberglass door also should be chosen. The wood finish of the fiberglass should also be selected by the homeowner consumer. The styles of finish, as in those for treating wood, are antique hickory’s and cherries. Additional customization is also possible. When the layout is fixed, the consumer may request individual customization such as carvings to make the door stand out from others on the street. Glass panels may be added in pieces to the center door, or on the side lights. The brands of glass and their patterns are also available in a preponderance of styles. If extra customization is needed, the process will be more difficult.

Real estate construction firms who build buildings or individuals who have bought a house find themselves in the position of having to pick the type of entry door to put in. As the entry door plays a huge role in dictating the style of the home, it is not expected that a choice can be made lightly. But as it is, there are several choices for the contemporary house owner. A door composed of fiberglass is a popular option. Fiberglass has an abundance of properties making it a superior option over the more normal wood material. It is superbly robust, a tad cheaper, invulnerable to water and sunlight, and can be forged to the aesthetics of those preferring the appearance of wood. The surface of fiberglass can even be stained to imitate the looks of trendy woods like hickory.

How about the installation process? The installation of a replacement door has for a long period implied putting a replacement into the frame after detaching the previous one from its hinges. The modern course of action is installation of an entry system. An entry system is a wise investment because the cost can be simply recovered as it enhances the look and sell ability of the house. An entry system is made up of the door, the jamb (or frame), the threshold.

Owing to the fact that the entry system is already made, substantial customization can be chosen without compromise on price or caliber. The house owner may add some real individualized touches, or to simplify the matter, select from a list of patterns or bits that can be added to the door. Tint of stain and finish can easily be chosen. including wood and steel, fiberglass is one of the most hardened materials with possibly the cheapest maintenance overhead, meaning homeowners will not have to think of price as the top worry. The consequence is that manufacturers of fiberglass doors can spare to give better warranties. Some makers will go to the point of ensuring the door for the time of house ownership, if the Entry System is too expensive.

When do you Call a Plumber?

Tuesday, May 11, 2010
posted by Craig

Plumbing call out charges vary largely based on where you live and what time of day you require a plumber. Standard call out charges in a metro locality should not differ markedly between individual plumbers, as competition will ensure they remain competitive – though more experienced plumbers will typically charge more for their services. Most plumbers will stipulate a minimum call out charge, with an additional charge for parts and labour. Some may advertise no call out charge at all, but have considerably higher rates per hour.

24/7 Call Out Charges

After hours call out charges to effect emergency repairs will be charged at a premium. The most common emergency plumbing scenarios in the home include drain blockages, burst pipes, faulty hot water systems and broken taps.

Plumbing Qualifications

Plumbers are a licensed trade and typically undergo training under an apprenticeship system. This takes place, with practical and theory components, over a number of years during which trainees are paid for the work they undertake. They are governed by local or national plumbing codes which stipulate health and safety regulations to be followed, as well standards for products and materials utilised.

What to ask your plumber?

Before you hire a plumber, there are a few basic questions you can ask to ensure you receive the best service. These include:

* Are they licensed by the local plumbing authority?
* Are they registered with the local plumbing authority?
* Are they in possession of public liability insurance?
* What is their call out rate?
* What is their hourly rate?
* Do they provide detailed quotes?
* Do they have customer referrals?

Types Of Home Plumbing

Plumbers service a number of different areas in the home, including:

Maintenance – this includes repairs to all the plumbing fixtures in the home, such as tap ware, toilets and water heating systems

Renovations – this is an ever expanding source of business for plumbers as people expand or remodel their properties; with outdoor spas, luxurious bathrooms and a range of appliances for the kitchen

New builds – new homes need to be connected to the main water supply, as well as having the internal piping and fixtures installed

Green plumbing – the growth in all things green has seen solar hot water, rainwater tanks and grey water recycling systems become popular with customers looking to make savings and protect the environment

Guttering – having the correct guttering ensures that your roofing is not infiltrated, particularly during heavy rainfall or storms