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This application of cement mortar over wire and paper is essentially the same as interior plaster and stucco on a exterior wall. Difference mainly here will be the wire used, which in a tile mortar bed float the wire has 1/4″ diamond holes to hold the cement, where typical stucco covered wire a standard application is chicken wire type with 1″ voids. Using the same mortar mix and scratch coating as well as floating the exact same method.
This first coat is considered by most the scratch coat as to just cover the wire and to not get too thick at once because the cement has a tendency to try and dry from the inside out and will crack, so a 3 coat approach is the system. Scratch, float and finish but the tile mortar bed need only a floated flat and level 2nd coat.
It’s time to swap out the old for the new. Turn water off at main supply. And with a fine metal blade we will cut the existing copper tubing 2″ from the new valve. The two way shower valve tub converter has copper fittings made that require sweated fittings as replacements. But were going with the SharkBite install because of the simple ease of mechanical fittings. Now with the 3/4″ copper tubing cut 2″away, we are ready to slip on the fittings. 
Unbelievable just push the sleeve over the pipe and bingo, we did it. No flame or soldering just post cuts clean all burrs and debris around the ends of the copper and lightly sand using fine sandpaper.
One going up to the head, another going down to the tub fill and right and left to cold and hot. After confidently connecting i will turn water back on and give a thorough inspection at all new fittings.
Getting right to the new bathroom fixture were ready to set the tub. Kohler Bellweather apron one piece
60″ x 32″ x 15-1/2″ is the choice here and it fits great right in the back wall of the bathroom. We had to take the door and the door stop mould off to get her in there. And now we are ready to install and fasten against the stud faces. Cast iron finish its heavy and took two people so enlist a friend and use your legs every chance you get. The drain assembly was inspected and rebuilt to suite , with access to all this from the other side of the wall at the access panel. We installed a 1x ledger around the walls at the right height. after setting in place put a level on her and check for any necessary adjustments needed.
This older bath needs an upgrade in the vent system so lets do this. Existing: 1 switch and 1 light, but with a fan in the ceiling i want to run a separate switch so i’m going to demo out the single gang box and replace with a 4 gang or dbl. switch box. 1 light switch and 1 fan switch @ same locale.
Ceiling joist are 16″ centers 2x’s, this gives us 14.5 ” in the clear between framing members. The new fan is a Broan QTXE110, It will get blocked out on either side in the ceiling bay and screwed off at the right finished ceiling height. Romex 2/14 wire pushed through the same plate hole and wired into the new fan housing. Ground wires together and white with white, black with black. Wire nutted and tested before next step.
Bare naked studs, well down to the stripped studs, free of any materials. Pull or smack in any staple, nail or fastener period. Now lets jump down to the bathtub. After it’s been emptied of rubbish it’s time to disconnect all plumbing attached.
If it’s going to be saved and used again that okay, even if it’s been dinged before ,during or any time in the future. Perhaps consider a recoat, they come to you and recoat the tub. Good for a few more years and looks passable enough. If the tubs going to be replaced the of coarse time is now. Heavy and bulky just the same it’ll break up into small hunks for disposal so get it done. Do not beat towards the wall(s) as the impact is never a good idea, be smart and careful.
Okay lets get dirty and begin tearing off all the wall and ceiling finishes to expose the framing. It’s simple to just beat this into submission, rather approach it as pieces you can handle. Cutting mini squares to then get behind and pry or pop off. Depending on your strength, will determine how big or small these pieces end up. Then straight to the trash with ease.
As the demo unfolds take note that the plumbing and electrical (pipes and wires) will be in the wall, running almost any which way. Do not cut or pry in between the framing bays. The studs will aide in prying by using them as leverage, so stay on the face of the framing members and the less pounding the better.