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In DIY electrical often times in a bathroom, some of the pre 1970′s homes, an exhaust fan needs to be added for ventilation and comfort. While many of these rooms have a light switch in a tiled wall for instance, without creating a bigger job than necessary you won’t have to change the single gang switch box to obtain 2 switches in the one box.
The image here shows how to install 2 switches in 1 electrical box. When the home was constructed a hot wire leg went into a light switch and a switch leg goes up to the light fixture.
When you have located the new place for the exhaust fan and or the energy efficient light fixture. You will now bring another electrical wire into the switch box from the new fixtures electrical housing. The existing hot wire gives power to both switches on the new electrical stack switch. Powering one switch to your existing light fixture and also powering the second switch for the new exhaust fan or combo fan and energy efficient light fixture.
Before installing kitchen cabinets you must devise a plan. Simple or not the execution of your kitchens new remodel needs a plan of attack to make and use the most of your options as well as the choices and particular design. On a blank sheet of paper draft, draw or just jot down the dimensions of the kitchen IE 16′ x 14′.5″ with the individual wall lengths as well as the ceiling height’s.
The more measurements you use the better, IE center of kitchen sink and center of any electrical outlets for example. If the left side wall has a door in it then by all means get it on paper. Any island in there? Is there a drop ceiling with lighting causing a loss of an extra 1 foot of height? May this can be updated and removed for more storage. Once this has been completed the major home improvement centers have people in store that can put you in the system and design your dream kitchen with those dimensions. It may take a few minutes but you’ll know much more about what it is you hope to get done, and they have lots of models and different designs to compare with for your ultimate decision. A first step in the right DIY kitchen cabinet venture!
PS: Don’t forget to ask about any blems or damaged goods, they do not want to throw these away and you may easily see how they will work for you just fine!!
This will be a how to install ceramic tile base in a bathroom. DIY a ceramic tile base board, creating a true water proof pan in the bathroom floor. 
This simple diy home improvement blasts out loud I can DIY. It’s just another approach but, brings a real sense of practicality. Removing a standard wood base and implementing a sealed system around the edge of a floor that has the propensity to flooding and water damage. A tiled base is not hard to do, and it can be a compliment to an existing ceramic tile floor, colorful and vibrant or earthy and textured. Either way it’s a long term solution with virtually no future maintenance.
Okay our float coat has dried long enough, the thicker it is the longer we should wait. Usually 24 to 48 hours depending on the thickness and climate of coarse. This has a tendency to dry from the inside out and can burp a little and even crack the tile if the thin set has enough strength. Were just saying because we’ve seen this before.
Tile thin set is the general term for this adhesion process. Thin set must be mixed thoroughly, 100% until it’s a nice creamy one colored substance. Then it must set approximately 10 minutes or so and remixed again. Now if the float is accurate a 1/8″ notched trowel coat can be applied. And the first and bottom course will be laid around the top of tub on the walls. This first course is the most important to get right because it will predicate the rest of the walls all the way to the top. Any cuts will go into the ends or corners, while all the rest of the pieces are the full manufacturers piece or common pieces. Many companies offer spot(s) to create designs that we will be adding on this remodel. Glass spots the same dimension as the commons.
Getting right to the new bathroom fixture were ready to set the tub. Kohler Bellweather apron one piece
60″ x 32″ x 15-1/2″ is the choice here and it fits great right in the back wall of the bathroom. We had to take the door and the door stop mould off to get her in there. And now we are ready to install and fasten against the stud faces. Cast iron finish its heavy and took two people so enlist a friend and use your legs every chance you get. The drain assembly was inspected and rebuilt to suite , with access to all this from the other side of the wall at the access panel. We installed a 1x ledger around the walls at the right height. after setting in place put a level on her and check for any necessary adjustments needed.
This older bath needs an upgrade in the vent system so lets do this. Existing: 1 switch and 1 light, but with a fan in the ceiling i want to run a separate switch so i’m going to demo out the single gang box and replace with a 4 gang or dbl. switch box. 1 light switch and 1 fan switch @ same locale.
Ceiling joist are 16″ centers 2x’s, this gives us 14.5 ” in the clear between framing members. The new fan is a Broan QTXE110, It will get blocked out on either side in the ceiling bay and screwed off at the right finished ceiling height. Romex 2/14 wire pushed through the same plate hole and wired into the new fan housing. Ground wires together and white with white, black with black. Wire nutted and tested before next step.
Bare naked studs, well down to the stripped studs, free of any materials. Pull or smack in any staple, nail or fastener period. Now lets jump down to the bathtub. After it’s been emptied of rubbish it’s time to disconnect all plumbing attached.
If it’s going to be saved and used again that okay, even if it’s been dinged before ,during or any time in the future. Perhaps consider a recoat, they come to you and recoat the tub. Good for a few more years and looks passable enough. If the tubs going to be replaced the of coarse time is now. Heavy and bulky just the same it’ll break up into small hunks for disposal so get it done. Do not beat towards the wall(s) as the impact is never a good idea, be smart and careful.
So, you’ve decided to take a do-it-yourself approach by attempting a home carpet installation. Rest assured that with the proper tools and the applicable knowledge, you’ll be able to complete the task in no time flat. Your first chore is to remove the old carpeting. Remove the moldings from each wall at floor level and also unhinge the door. You’ll need access to every square inch of the carpet surface.
After a thorough vacuuming, take a utility knife to the carpet, slicing it into manageable strips. Tear up all of the carpeting to leave a bare, dry subfloor. Once you’ve evaluated and ensured the structural integrity of the subfloor, you’re ready to begin installing carpet. Start laying new tackless strips along the floor, leaving at least ½ inch of space between them and the wall. We’ll address the underpad and the carpet proper in an ensuing post.