Check Local Availability
check your local store, for in store pickup
check your local store, for in store pickup
check your local store, for in store pickup
Let’s face it, no matter where you live, selling your home is tough with the economy the way it is right now. When most people put their home on the market, first they remodel it and try to accentuate its selling points. However, with a tough economy, some of those remodels will go unnoticed and won’t add any real value to your home.
When remodeling your home before you put it on the market, the key features to focus on are fireplace(s), kitchen, and master bathroom. These three features sell homes. While the other features of your home shouldn’t be neglected, these three features will make or break a sale. And even if you don’t do a complete home remodel, it’s important to ensure these facets of your home are in peak condition.
When people look at buying a home, often the kitchen is the first room they inspect. A kitchen that looks like it’s from the 1950s will cause a buyer to lose interest in the whole home. Under most circumstances, kitchen remodeling is a good thing. Even in an economy where sellers are struggling, a kitchen remodel can go a long way. Even though a homebuyer might not get a return on a kitchen remodel, it’s quite possible they’ll get a home offer that wouldn’t have otherwise been there. Even though kitchen remodeling can be quite expensive, there are a few practices that can make it much more bearable. For example, instead of replacing all the cabinetry, repaint and replace the cabinet doors and handles instead. Instead of granite countertops, use faux granite, or avoid the expensive granite slabs by opting for granite tiling. And make sure that all of the essential utilities are functioning properly—taking a few minutes to perform some kitchen sink repair on a leaky faucet is well worth it.
Replacing the appliances in the kitchen can be a good thing, and it’s not necessary to go all out and purchase a leading model either. The current trend is stainless steel, and as long as an appliance is stainless steel, it will do well.
When attacking just about every bath sink repair that we have done almost always, if we need to get under the sink to work on anything at all, there really isn’t much room to operate. And the typical human being is on average much larger than the area that needs attention. So that being said we as a general rule take the doors off the cabinet, where the work is ready to be commenced.
As tight and cumbersome as it is, this goes without saying. But any relief at all would behoove the DIYer, so take a word of advise, from someone who has been there more often than i care to mention. With 8 screws @ 2 per each hinge, on the doors, just a few minutes of extra labor time. But what is gained here is just a little bit more wiggle room to get that pipe wrench where you want it and to avoid beating the doors up with your knee’s and having another project to add to the DIY list!
Unbelievable is the best way to describe this new age of DIY Plumbing. When the last time about a year ago we got the call for something to do with a leak, in which we discovered although we could not see it, that a copper line some how developed a pin hole mini misting leak. Inside the wall underneath the tub it was there and it was producing moisture all the while black mold with many a little creature making homes nearby. This particular leak would have only been accessible had the tub and tile been demo’ed out of the way or on the other side of the wall in the kitchen, granite top as well as a portion of the lower cabinetry dismantled and installed again, now getting into the $ 2000.00 US range!
After a few calls and an extensive conversation with the home owner at the time, we came upon a newer line of fittings and figured if we can get one hand on the pipe we were able to cut, sand any burrs and push on the product sold to us that could keep this job near $200.00 US , well it would be at least worth a try!
Within minutes we had the water back on and a dry hand testing and testing until we were convinced that this newfangled plumbing fitting has just revolutionized the art of sweating/soldering copper plumbing forever. You CAN DO IT!
The bathroom is ready for the floor to be covered and we are going with a 12″ ceramic flat tile that will bring a visual marriage to the shower tiles on the walls. After placing a level on the slab floor we have come to the conclusion that it’s very out of level in a relative short distance up to 3/4″ from lowest to the highest peak. Lucky for us the high point is located at the door transition, where tile meets the carpet in the hallway and will not be an issue.
We want to pour a leveling agent that can go from 0″ to 3/4″ and not crack or breakup over time. The liquid will find its own level and fill the low area as we pour. We have marked the borders here as to not over fill. The agent we have chosen is for leveling uneven wood or concrete floors. A quick setting, non-shrinking compound with excellent adhesive qualities for leveling and repairing uneven surfaces before the installation of ceramic tile of a resilient floor. Waiting for the curing process and the we can apply the tile over this with thin set.
The water supply line that comes out of the wall or floor has a handle and when turned one way or the other will open or close and turn on or off the water to that particular plumbing fixture. The plumbing pipe coming out could be one of several types and depending on which type of plumbing repair pipe will dictate the type of angle stop is being used. Copper pipe typically being 1/2″ if not sweated on will be a compression fit angle stop.
Like the one to the right here, this large nut encompasses a washer inside and when slipped over the copper supply line, the washer will crimp around and seal itself onto the valve body, to then give you control over on/off and variable water pressure at the turn of the handle.
The angle stop on the left here is of a 1/2″ pipe threaded type and is common in any brass or galvanized pipe nipple application, theoretically both of these more used angle stops are of a mechanical based application that any person with 2 wrenches can put on or take off. The weekend DIY warrior need only one voice in their heads to reassure them they can DIY plumbing repair.
Just as a home improvement task can vary from fixing a rain gutter to installing all new bathroom fixtures, so can the necessary equipment. One thing remains constant – you’ll need to find and collect the right tools for the job before you even begin. There’s nothing worse than realizing half-way into a task that you’re missing a crucial piece of equipment. This is especially true on the weekends, when good tools are hard to come by.
In order to ensure that you have a full supply of relevant home improvement tools, you might want to check online. Unlike brick-and-mortar retail stores, which are perpetually running out of stock and needing to reorder, you can always find an online retailer to suit your unique do-it-yourself needs. Whether you need staplers and measuring tape for carpet installation or some wrenches for a plumbing project, your needs are covered online.
This older bath needs an upgrade in the vent system so lets do this. Existing: 1 switch and 1 light, but with a fan in the ceiling i want to run a separate switch so i’m going to demo out the single gang box and replace with a 4 gang or dbl. switch box. 1 light switch and 1 fan switch @ same locale.
Ceiling joist are 16″ centers 2x’s, this gives us 14.5 ” in the clear between framing members. The new fan is a Broan QTXE110, It will get blocked out on either side in the ceiling bay and screwed off at the right finished ceiling height. Romex 2/14 wire pushed through the same plate hole and wired into the new fan housing. Ground wires together and white with white, black with black. Wire nutted and tested before next step.
So, you’ve decided to take a do-it-yourself approach by attempting a home carpet installation. Rest assured that with the proper tools and the applicable knowledge, you’ll be able to complete the task in no time flat. Your first chore is to remove the old carpeting. Remove the moldings from each wall at floor level and also unhinge the door. You’ll need access to every square inch of the carpet surface.
After a thorough vacuuming, take a utility knife to the carpet, slicing it into manageable strips. Tear up all of the carpeting to leave a bare, dry subfloor. Once you’ve evaluated and ensured the structural integrity of the subfloor, you’re ready to begin installing carpet. Start laying new tackless strips along the floor, leaving at least ½ inch of space between them and the wall. We’ll address the underpad and the carpet proper in an ensuing post.
Turn on the lighting fixture and nothing? Jiggle the bulb, go back to the switch and turn it on again, nothing? Expose the bulb and when removing it, the glass breaks at the end and now the metal threaded contact has broken off inside the socket and needs to be removed.
Okay, no need to fret. A pair of needle nose pliers will solve this issue lickety split. First and foremost make certain the power is off. If unable to see then get a flashlight, and put the pliers between the screwed in part of bulb and the actual fixture, the male and female if you will. Get a bite on the male piece and gently unscrew this part out. The switch at the wall in general terms will cut the power to the light, If uncertain then go to the main power source and turn off. Put light back on the subject.