Check Local Availability
check your local store, for in store pickup
check your local store, for in store pickup
check your local store, for in store pickup
Mixing the same mortar mix were ready to float the walls inside the shower/tub area for tile. We chose a 6″ ceramic tile with butt joint’s or no grout lines. Placing them in line on the floor I can layout the exact dimensions for the float. IE a 60″ tub wall to start , 6″ tiles , 6×9=54″ and we need to end up with 58″ finish giving us 2″ to float or 1″ per side. That gives us 4″ in make up, so 6 tiles equals 54″ and 1 tile gets cut twice for a 2″ corner piece on both sides to make up the total flat level float of 58″. So we mark the top rim of the tub with tape and a line we can see and float straight plumb up, with an accurate level. Shim sticks or pads enables us to be accurate here for floating, using plywood or 2x strips sunk into the mortar mud and scrapping off across the excess with a straight edge until perfection is fruition.
Your mortar mix should have a slump strength of 8″ or so. Meaning it can sit in a pile about this high before it’s own weight will cave itself and fall. Too wet or not wet enough. Play with it a little and you can tell. Trowel it up and on then scape if off. Soon it will start taking shape and a smile will take over your face.
Toilets out and sink discoed with the vanity unscrewed a removed, protect the plumbing from debris falling from above and plug the drains with a rag. Remove shower doors and or enclosure, to get access to the tub/shower plumbing. Take all finish plates and knobs out from the tub and tiled area as before proceeding with the plumbing repair project.
Okay the bath tub should be left to help us, tattered and tired this fixture is being replaced? If not than protect it well. The finished walls are tiled up and around to the tub, let’s tarp off the tub before we start blowing the tile off, the tarp can catch most of the falling broken trash. A pair of wire cutters kick butt here because once we open behind the tile the wire mesh needs cutting into movable scrap hunks. A sawzall can be helpful but not necessary at this point. Size matters here for sure, cut around tile, cement float, drywall, thin-set and wire, this will be heavy so, make these manageable pieces, they have to be handled to the dumpster or trash.
As promised for the next 25 posts or so this blog will be reflecting on a series of home improvement 
info relative to a full bath remodel. From the bare naked studs and sub straight plywood on above the subfloor framing members.
One complete bathroom, meaning 1 shower/tub combo, 1 vanity with a single sink basin and 1 toilet. Typical full service bathroom that every house contains in this universe, generally typing of coarse. We’ll take you from demo stages into the rough placement of lighting, fans, shower valve exchange with stone or tile surround above the new tub, an in depth redo done right the first time.
“The power to think consecutively and deeply with clarity,is an avowed and deadly enemy to mistakes and blunders, superstitions, unscientific theories, irrational beliefs, unbridled enthusiasm and fanaticism”- Haddock
Once we have the new outlet in place and ready to be finished, it will require some DIY drywall work. Prepping the area in need of patching is a must. So clean out and around the hole with a shop vac or brush, get all the loose debris and dust off in, and around the surface.
The drywall mud has to be the consistency of a milkshake and free from any foreign particles. Use drywall tape to cover the edges (the fiberglass mesh tape works best in this type of application) of the new piece and existing surface, apply mud first then lay tape over the first coat of mud and knife smooth, let dry and add as many coats as needed. After some practice it will become quite easier. Some times a texture has to be applied, but often times the nap of the paint roller can be just right.